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DIY 35mm Adapter Finished + Tutorial - version 1.01

Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 12:21am

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Serpent

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Rating: +12


At last, I finished my 35mm Adapter. Special thanks to Dancamfx and Jetsetmodels. They both helped me out directly and with their parts lists and tutorials.

Sample footage - Note, I shot this very quickly for this thread. There is dust on the GG that I have to clean, but to clean it you literally unscrew two pieces and use a sensor cleaning kit that they make for digital cameras. On cameras with interchangeable lenses, you will have to clean it. But on this one, once you get it in there dust free, it will stay dust free because of the two Hoya filters. Here goes:

-How it works. From camera POV, putting the adapter on and setting up the camera for shooting. (COMING SOON)
-Wide Angle Lens dolly forward (COMING SOON)
-Macro Lens showing basic focus (328kb, 2 seconds)


Later I might post some better footage with all 3 of my lenses having spent more time on it, with a clean focus screen, etc. I was insane to embark on this post, with college apps and whatnot, but it's fun.

SERPENT'S VIDEO TUTORIALS - Once you get all the parts, refer to this to put everything together:
(CAPTURED, STILL NEED TO EDIT, COMING SOON)
-Putting the adapter together
-Changing Lenses, Using focus and zoom rings, holding the setup. (21 MB, 49 seconds)
-Quick fix: Flipping your image. (Image 1, Image 2) - I just taped a mirror to the LCD. I'm going to mount this mirror to my support later.
-How to clean your GG. (COMING SOON)

Here are the resources I used:

http://fxhome.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=30559&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=39
http://jetsetmodels.info/pics/diy_35dof_video.mov (I ignored the part where you use the vibrating motor)
http://jetsetmodels.info/pics/positioning.jpg
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/forumdisplay.php?f=113 (This is a 35mm Adapter forum. The stickies explain what one is, what kinds there are, what kinds you can buy, etc.)

Parts list for 35mm Adapter AND Support Arm (I made this part up, it works well, and a professional one is $200) with links:

Nikon D Focusing Screen (Canon Ee-A Screen Recommended). If you get the Ee-A screen (which is better, brighter, and easier to find), get it here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/402203-REG/Canon_0828B001_Ee_A_Standard_Focusing_Screen.html

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Static GG Holder for EOS and Nikon D Screen: http://jetsetmodels.info/static.htm
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*58-55 Step Down Filter Ring - **eBay Search (Pic is of a step-up ring. See *)
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***10x HD Macro Lens - **eBay Search
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****2 Canon EOS Macro Extension Tubes **eBay
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Any 55mm filter (get the cheapest, you are removing the glass) Best Buy has them for $10
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2 Hoya Multi Coated UV Filters - eBay or B and H, whatever you are comfortable with.

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Super Glue (Get one that has a thin point and easy to control)
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Hot Glue Gun
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Heavy Duty Wood Paint Stirrer - Hardware Store
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Some Kind of Thin hard foam (mine was 5mm thick)
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*****Blank to Blank Adapter
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TOTAL PRICE WITHOUT LENS: $180
You could easily get a better price if you listen to what I say and don't make the mistakes that I did. You will also make yours much quicker than I will.

*58mm is the size of the threads on my Canon GL1. You should get an adapter for your camera size. If your threads are less than 55mm (ie: 52mm), you should get a step up ring: 52mm-55mm.

**Just search for what I said.

***Get a 10x macro lens that fits your camcorder.

****If you have Nikon SLR lenses, get a cheap Nikon extension tube kit.

*****If you don't have a Canon EF Lens or modern Nikon Lens, and you have older lenses, you will have to buy an adapter (it's just a little screw on adapter ring.

Optional: Black paint to make the support look uber sleek. I'm not going to tell you how to apply the paint...
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Info on project: one part (the Hoya filters) was ordered from China and it took around a month. I'd try to find one in your country even it costs you a bit more. The support arm is absolutely awesome. Allows for tripod mount, doesn't hinder using the zoom or focus rings, and cost me $0 (I used stuff out of my garage and scavenged for the proper material.)

The most difficult part of this tutorial is gluing the focus screen and holder into the tube. It has to be exactly 42.5mm in there. So I'm going to make it easy for you (but only if you use the EOS tube and Ee-A screen, both recommended if you don't have modern Nikon lenses.)
http://jetsetmodels.info/pics/positioning.jpg
That you can use to hold your screen in place while you glue it and let it dry. I made this out of pipe and hard foam, added together to be exactly the right height.

FAQ (I made these questions up, actually, though I accept questions and suggestions) smile :

Can you use it on any camera?
Yes, just use the right step down and macro lens thread sizes and this will work on any camera.

How long did it take?
It took me two days to put it together because I let things dry over night.

How do you change the aperture?
You can't unless your lens has some kind of switch on it (older lenses). The only think you can change is shutter speed.

What are your camera settings?
I use the brightest aperture and 1/60 shutter speed, shoot at 30 frames per second.

How do auto settings work?
All the auto settings work, though aperture only effects brightness, not depth of field. The camera thinks it is seeing a scene when actually it is filming your little glass screen that you mount in the adapter. So if it's dark, the auto settings will make the shutter speed be slower and aperture wider. Same goes for auto white balance. Now, focusing is weird. Your camera will try to focus on something, but if your "35mm" lens is out of focus, it can't do anything about it. So it does something called focus searching, where it is constantly changing focus. Autofocus works if the scene or the subject is in focus. Here's how to fix this: Set the focus on your lens to infinity and point your camera at something that's far away. Set the camera to manual focus, and it will be focused on the glass screen.

What lenses do you use?
I have a 17-40 f/4L wide angle lens, a 50mm Compact Macro Lens, and a 70-200f/4L telephoto lens. These are all Canon brand and I recommend each and every one of them. I have them for photography use.

Where'd you get the music?
Both independent artists. One is my friend, other is my friend's brother.
http://myspace.com/xylophonetress
http://www.myspace.com/treestarthebandbeforetime

Building the support arm:
Cut your wood so that it stretches the length of your adapter with your longest lens on it. Cut your foam to just where the adapter and lens are, not the camera. Gorilla glue it to the wood and let it dry over night. Then cut two smaller squares of foam and gorilla glue them at two different places along your support arm. This adds further elevated support. Mark on the wood where your camera's tripod threads are. Drill a hole there, and from the bottom, screw in a machine screw and secure it with a nut. I got a perfect length machine screw to make it look clean. I still have to paint my wood by the way.

NOTE: Right now, my support arm does not prevent the whole thing from shaking a little. Today is the first day I used the adapter, and I had to zoom in a little bit extra so the inside of the adapter wouldn't come into view.

Mounting your setup to a tripod:
Go to this video at Indy Mogul: http://www.indymogul.com/weekend-extra/episode/IMWE_20071116
at 1:35 in. All you have to do is find the proper T-Nut for a tripod. Set it in a piece of wood that's about as thin as your paint stirrer using Indy Mogul's method. Then Gorilla Glue that piece of wood to the bottom of your setup. There are other ways to do it. Make sure you put this part where the body of your camera is. That is the best pivot point and it's the center of balance (or near it).

Mini Lens Guide - Terminology and how to get started:

-Wide angle lenses: This allows you to get a wide view of things. Extreme wide angle would be the fisheye lens effect. 10-30mm is pretty much the wide angle range. "mm" refers to a lot of different things. When it's used to describe a lens, it refers to the focal length.

-Telephoto lenses: These are long lenses used to see something far away, or to get a different effect (if you focus on a subject that is close to you with a telephoto lens, the background won't be as wide as the same exact angle taken with a wide angle lens.)

-Macro Lenses: These are used to focus on something close. Ratios like 1:1 is used to describe how close it can focus. Most macro lenses can be used for other things. A long macro lens is 100mm, but most are in the 30-70mm range.

-What does the f/# description of a lens mean? That is the widest aperture your lens can get. The lower the number, the wider the aperture. WIde aperture lets more light in so it's better for low light. Low f/stop numbers also give you a thinner depth of field. On a 35mm adapter, your lens aperture is always wide open unless it can be changed on the lens (old lenses). One way to change aperture on your newer lens is this:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=1106719&postcount=24

But you will need to have a still camera that supports the lens (which you probably do if you own the lens.)

-Can your lens zoom? If there are two numbers, like 70-200mm, that would mean it is a zoom lens that can zoom from 70mm to 200mm. If there is one number, like 50mm, it is a prime lens. Prime lenses only have a focus ring. Prime lenses are better quality for the price. In other words a $100 prime will be better quality optics than a $100 zoom lens.

-What's a good resource for modern lenses? Now that you know the terminology and you know what to look for, check out this site:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/
People review lenses and post examples in the review sections. If the lens is good quality on an SLR, it will be good quality on a 35mm adapter. Canon makes some great low priced prime lenses. I am only going to shoot fixed focal length shots with my adapter because it's hard to control both rings, and I personally don't like zoom shots.

-What about old lenses? Check out pawn shops, ebay, and camera dealers. Old lenses can be pretty damn cheap. And since most video cameras don't pick nearly as much as a still camera, so you don't need a $2,000 lens. If you buy an old lens and use this 35mm adapter, you will have to get a converter ring from Canon EF to whatever lens you have. Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Sigma, Tamron are all good lensmakers. There are more, but I don't know much about them.

NOTE: I am still working on my setup. I will try to update this as I go along. I will document how to clean the GG properly, how to use your adapter well, etc. I am still experimenting. I'm using this for a film I am making this December. I will post the film in this thread and the cinema. By then, the adapter should be "perfect". Also, if you bump this thread, it will remind me to update it. I don't mind being "bugged," just don't bug me on AIM, e-mail, or PM's. Just post a little reminder; be nice. smile I love suggestions too. I've done tons of research on this before building, but I am not the authority on this. If you notice any typos or mistakes, tell me. I want this to eventually be a centralized resource on building this easy to modify and put together adapter. I hate imperfections in writing, so let me know.[/list]

Last edited Wed, 5th Dec 2007, 10:13pm; edited 15 times in total.

Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 12:28am

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Klausky

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Epic tech here!
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 3:59am

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ben3308

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This is great, man! I'm so glad someone with skills/cameras/stuff similar to me has made one of these, now I can judge just how difficult a feat it's going to be. (If that makes any sense)

I am for sure making one of these now. I had my eyes set on buying one, but after Christmas and my birthday I think I'll take out a little money and just build one straight up.

This looks fun to use. Be sure to keep us posted with the footage/projects you create with it!

EDIT:

After making the emboldened points, on the following question-and-answer sections, it might benefit readability to italicize the question portions. Just a thought.
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 4:42am

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Serpent

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Done. Thanks for the suggestion. I was hoping this would encourage people because I am not exactly a craftsman and I'm pretty young with self-taught experience. Anyone can do it. You just have to commit to it (which isn't hard, because the result is so awesome and rewarding) and be patient and careful with glue. smile In the video tutorial I show a good way to apply the hot glue to the GG holder, I've got a lot of stuff to worry about this week though. Should be up this weekend maybe.
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 6:27pm

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Dancamfx

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It looks great serpent, Im glad it worked out for you. Did you run into any problems with the build?
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 7:01pm

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Merrick

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This is great. Anyone know where I can find a guide to different lenses and what they do? I am thinking of making my own adapter but think that I should be educated on it a bit first. Thanks. smile
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 7:58pm

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Serpent

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Dancamfx wrote:

It looks great serpent, Im glad it worked out for you. Did you run into any problems with the build?
Actually, yes. smile When I superglued the Hoya filter into tube 1, I had it faced down and the gases destroyed it. So basically I screwed the other Hoya filter to the destroyed Hoya filter (I broke the glass) and my current adapter isn't dust sealed, so I need to order another filter. I cover all the things not to do in the tutorial.


Merrick World wrote:

This is great. Anyone know where I can find a guide to different lenses and what they do? I am thinking of making my own adapter but think that I should be educated on it a bit first. Thanks. smile
I just added a little lens guide to the bottom to get you started.
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 8:45pm

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Evman

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Helluva thread you've started here, and VERY valuable.

I vote it be added to the Ultimate FAQ and maybe even made a sticky somewhere.

Bravo good sir, Bravo! razz
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 9:08pm

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Redhawksrymmer

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Really informative and very inspiring article! I'll have to try something like this the next time I have a lot of free time! Good job sir!

+1! Will let Arktic know about it, for the UFAQ!
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 10:01pm

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Merrick

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Thanks for the guide. It's all relly usefull. Definately should be in the UFAQ.
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 10:38pm

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jmax

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I have a question. When using a 35 mm lense like this (in a way that the video camera wasn't exactly designed to handle), do the camera auto-functions still work? Or do you have to adjust aperature and focus solely on a manual basis?
Posted: Mon, 3rd Dec 2007, 11:06pm

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Serpent

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jmax wrote:

I have a question. When using a 35 mm lense like this (in a way that the video camera wasn't exactly designed to handle), do the camera auto-functions still work? Or do you have to adjust aperature and focus solely on a manual basis?
All the auto settings work, though aperture only effects brightness, not depth of field. The camera thinks it is seeing a scene when actually it is filming your little glass screen that you mount in the adapter. So if it's dark, the auto settings will make the shutter speed be slower and aperture wider. Same goes for auto white balance. Now, focusing is weird. Your camera will try to focus on something, but if your "35mm" lens is out of focus, it can't do anything about it. So it does something called focus searching, where it is constantly changing focus. Autofocus works if the scene or the subject is in focus. Here's how to fix this: Set the focus on your lens to infinity and point your camera at something that's far away. Set the camera to manual focus, and it will be focused on the glass screen. I added your question to the FAQ.

Now I'm going to address something: Lenses are not necessarily "35mm lenses." The term 35mm adapter came from the fact that you can achieve the depth of field of a 35mm format film camera. I have been studying photography for about a year, and I have the gist of the terms. But I think that "mm" can be confusing. I think one should avoid describing the lenses as 35mm lenses, because that is only true if it came from a 35mm film camera. My lenses are compatible on both newer film and DSLR cameras. A newbie might think 35mm describes the focal length or something and that only 35mm lenses work or something? I just think it could get confusing.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 12:43am

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jmax

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Serpent wrote:

Here's how to fix this: Set the focus on your lens to infinity and point your camera at something that's far away. Set the camera to manual focus, and it will be focused on the glass screen.
Sounds like a pain. But that's proper film-making. smile
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 12:55am

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Evman

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jmax wrote:

Serpent wrote:

Here's how to fix this: Set the focus on your lens to infinity and point your camera at something that's far away. Set the camera to manual focus, and it will be focused on the glass screen.
Sounds like a pain. But that's proper film-making. smile
It's only pressing two buttons... And it's more than worth that in the first place. razz
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 1:35am

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Serpent

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My camera stays on manual focus. So I only had to do it once. Also, the autofocus + pointing at infinity focus to manual focus thing was just an idea by the way. If you used manual focus, you could just set the focus to focus on the screen. My GL1 also has a fixed zoom after it's turned off. You have to zoom in on the focus screen for it to fill the frame (I'll post a video showing this this weekend) and if your camera didn't save the zoom after turning off, THAT would be a pain. Test that out: zoom in as far as it can go, turn the camera off, then turn it back on. Still zoomed in? If not, you'll probably turn the camera off a lot less and should probably invest in an extra battery. smile
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 1:56am

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ben3308

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Serpent wrote:

All the auto settings work, though aperture only effects brightness, not depth of field.
Not to sound like a know-it-all or anything, but aperture does in fact directly affect depth of field.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 2:21am

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Serpent

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Not in the camera settings. Sorry, you are wrong. The aperture effects the depth of field WITHIN the 35mm adapter. So you don't notice it, because the focus screen fills the frame. The LENS's aperture effects the depth of field, and if you are using a modern lens (which I have stressed three times now), your aperture is fixed WIDE OPEN. I know what aperture normally does ben, I'm am incredibly interested in photography and cinematography. I am perfectly aware it effects depth of field normally. But if you change your video camera lens's aperture, nothing will change but the brightness. Just think about it for a second. Your camera lens is filming a little tiny screen. The little tiny screen is what the SLR camera lens's image is projected onto. That's what a 35mm adapter does.

EDIT: Just realized: why would I have even mentioned depth of field at all if I didn't know that aperture affects depth of field? It would really just be completely out in left field.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 3:37am

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ben3308

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I got your context wrong. I thought you were just making a general statement about how camera aperture doesn't affect depth-of-field. In turn, of course if I had understood the context, I have sense enough to realize that recording a movie on a screen doesn't mean you can change the depth of what's on the screen itself.

I know you're a photography guy, it would've been ignorant of me to think you were wrong; unless, of course, I misunderstood what you said! biggrin
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 3:45am

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BlueSmudge

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It might be worth picking up some older 35mm lenses off ebay that have have full manual control over iris (versus modern ones designed to be controlled by the camera). You may not always want the narrow DOF, but removing the adapter would change the look of the footage. You can get them pretty cheap, plus it could give you more prime lens options. Just thinking out loud.

This thread has renewed interesting in building my own adapter again. Thanks!
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 4:14am

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Serpent

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BlueSmudge wrote:

It might be worth picking up some older 35mm lenses off ebay that have have full manual control over iris (versus modern ones designed to be controlled by the camera). You may not always want the narrow DOF, but removing the adapter would change the look of the footage. You can get them pretty cheap, plus it could give you more prime lens options. Just thinking out loud.

This thread has renewed interesting in building my own adapter again. Thanks!
I completely agree. My wide angle lens is set at f/4 on the adapter (that's it's widest), so I'll be using that for deeper DOF when I don't win it so thin. That lens only gets thin depth of field if the subject is extremely close. But it would be silly to buy "darker" lenses just to get a deep DOF. I'm just lucky.

http://www.cpostudios.com/images/portfolio/Page%203.jpg
-Taken with my 17-40 F/4L wide open. With a 1.8-2.8 macro, you wouldn't be able to make his face out at all. When the subject is further away, I can't imagine wanting more deep focus. Again, this is just me luckily having this set of lenses, so if anyone has a similar selection, don't feel like you have to pay more to get more control over depth of field.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 4:27am

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ben3308

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Serpent, are you at all interested in producing more of these 35mm adapters? If not for the community- or even a small group- then for one member of the community (me)?

Just mull it over, I'm willing to pay a premium, of sorts.

Otherwise I better get to building my own, haha.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 5:07am

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Serpent

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My college applications are due January 15th. I think after that, I am going to start "entrepreneuring" and finding ways to make money. In January, I will start taking 35mm adapter orders. Here's how it will work:

If you want one, you will pay a certain upfront fee and agree to pay for all the parts + labor. Then at some cutoff day, I will order all the parts I need in bulk. I will then build them one at a time. Hopefully not too many people ask, or I might have more than I can handle. But next semester is going to be really easy for me (no college, no fourth bell or college class, just time to work on my general portfolio, make money, and have fun.) So anyone who wants one, just keep my offer in mind and I'll bump the thread in January (if someone else doesn't) with some kind of online order system. If you aren't willing to wait, then I'm sorry. I just really don't have the time right now. I can't wait for January.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 3:09pm

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Redhawksrymmer

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Added this to the UFAQ, under "Useful FXhome Links" smile
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 7:22pm

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Klausky

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I will certainly buy one!

I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT. I have two lenses for it, the basic one and a zoom lens. I'm guessing these would work.

Sign me up and bravo.
Posted: Tue, 4th Dec 2007, 8:41pm

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Serpent

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Redhawk: thanks for adding that. Cool to be part of the UFAQ smile.

All right, I have 3 orders already.

-Evman
-Atom/Ben
-Klausky

I will build you guys 35mm Adapters. My labor charge won't be all that steep. Here's the deal: I feel like I've got a good method for building it and not getting glue on the glass, etc. You guys would be first timers. So I am going to charge $50 labor for the first round of customers and see if I am happy with the profit:work ratio AND I will personally buy your ground glass or Hoya filters if I mess up and destroy them with glue. I can build the adapters at the same time and let them all dry together, so you don't have to worry about getting it first. If you tell me you want one, you ARE committing to it and you are waiting until January/early February (I start in Jan). Evman and I discussed labor price on AIM, and for right now the price is fixed. He thinks it's fair, if you disagree you can go buy a more expensive one or make it yourself. The insurance thing is me promising you that the adapter is as perfect as this design can get. When the time comes, you give me your camera's thread size etc. I think I'm going to say the cutoff number of orders for round 1 is 5, so two more people can go unless Ben/Atom or Klausky back out after hearing the labor cost.

As I mentioned, I am insuring any glue problems/production problems. If you were building your adapter and the ground glass was destroyed or scratched, a new one would be $35 + shipping. The Hoya filter is something I messed up but in the video tutorial I describe how to avoid that problem. I just want to put the price and insurance in perspective. I don't think it's too bad.

And because I need to use my 42.5mm support device to glue the GG, I will not be mailing that to people who are doing it themselves and I am removing that from page 1.

The price I have on page one is all the parts + shipping. That's ABOUT what you have to pay for parts (maybe a bit less because I'll be saving money on multiples). So if you are interested, reply to this topic or contact me personally. I will still provide the BEST information I have on building the adapters and make my tutorial as in depth as possible for those who opt to build it.
Posted: Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 3:04am

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BringPopcorn

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So this method will work with an XL-1 also?
Posted: Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 3:38am

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Serpent

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Honestly, if I had an XL series camera, I'd buy an adapter like the Letus35XL. If you put a 35mm adapter on top of your physically long L series lens, it would be MASSIVE and it would probably be tough for wide shots. If I had an XL camera, I would feel silly with 2 interchangeable lens systems. Technically, yeah, it would work, but you are really defeating one of the reasons one would have an XL-1. The Letus35XL takes away for the need of the video lens that you currently have on your camera.

Pic:



EDIT: Just realized how expensive that thing is though. I don't really know what I'd do if I had an XL1. smile I guess I'd add on to the interchangeable lens, unfortunately.


ALSO: I would be adding the video tutorials, but a lot is going on in my life right now. I'll revive the topic January 15th, when I'm done will all my college stuff.
Posted: Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 4:32am

Post 28 of 33

ben3308

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Serpent, do you think the ground glass on the ones you'll be making will rival/be better than those on the Letus 35? I've seen so many 35mm adapters (even commercially sold, like the Letus) go astray from a bad GG.

(EDIT: Oh my god, now they're charging 1200 bucks for the Letus? I'd imagine hiking the price up by 850 dollars would deter people unsure)

Also, if I get this straight:

$180 parts + $50 labor + $(?) shipping = $240-ish?

Do I have that right?

Specs for me are:

- Canon GL2, 58mm threads + bayonet mount (if that matters at all)
- Canon Rebel K2 stock zoom lens, 58mm, EOS
- Olympus OM-1 prime lens, 50mm
-
Posted: Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 2:18am

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Serpent

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You've got it right. I want over charge you for parts also, I'll show you all my bills so it could end up less than that, who knows. The ground glass I use is pretty much universally accepted as awesome (Canon Ee-A). I'm not sure how it compares to the Letus, but everyone who makes DIY adapters uses the Ee-A screen pretty much. You could have been seeing dusty ground glass, wax screens, or any number of things. But the Ee-A screen should be great. I'm re-doing mine with an Ee-A screen right now, and I'll post pics as results. Dancamfx used the Ee-A screen and you saw his fantastic results.

As for the Olympus lens, that's an extra part that you'll have to pay for. It'd be nice if you could order that separately, it would make more sense. You are just looking for a Canon EF > Olympus ___ adapter/converter/whatever. It would literally screw onto the Canon mount at the proper focal distance already. Search around ebay. These are around $20 or so (in that general range.)

People who have GL2's will be easier to do because the GL1 has pretty much the same lens and threads. Macro lenses for the GL1 work on the GL2 as well. Your EOS lens will mount directly onto this.
Posted: Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 3:07am

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ben3308

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So I'm looking at PayPal-ing you roughly 240 bucks around the time of creation of the adapter, then?

We need to discuss when/at what time, so that I can get my funds in the correct accounts; and so the whole payment-to-shipment transition is smooth.
Posted: Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 3:42am

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SilverDragon7

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I would like to buy one too (because in the near furture I will be purchasing a Canon GL2, probably March-ish).
Posted: Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 4:24am

Post 32 of 33

Serpent

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Yeah, when the time comes we'll arrange it. My Paypal account is all confirmed and whatnot so the transaction should be simple. I'll just bring my package up to a shipping place at the corner and get the price of shipping. Then I'll tell you the total and I can have it out that day. NYU deadline is January 15th, so I could probably start working on it January 15th, depending on what's going on then. You should definitely have it in February though.

SilverDragon7 wrote:

I would like to buy one too (because in the near furture I will be purchasing a Canon GL2, probably March-ish).
If the first set goes well I'll make a second set around that time. But do you really want to order one before you get the camera? If so I can add your name to the first set. Think about it, there are still two slots open and I haven't been getting crazy offers.

To all: The film I am making for NYU is going to use the 35mm Adapter with the Canon Ee-A lens. So it's a guarantee that I'll have some footage ready in January. Other than that, I am extremely busy and can't add much to this topic until then.
Posted: Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 6:09am

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SilverDragon7

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No, actually just scratch me off the list, I'll get it when your second set comes around (after I have the camera).