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HDSLRs Around FXhome

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Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 12:10pm

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rogolo

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Since late last year, the number of FXhomers who had purchased (or planned on purchasing) HDSLRs had been steadily creeping up. With the release of the T2i/550D last month, that number has exploded. Content created with these cameras has been churned out by the likes of Swintonmaximilian, Redhawksrymmer, Rockfilmers, and FXhome itself. Everyone from Triple Dick's family members, to our favorite Texan twins, to a Certain Someone 'in the industry' have all expressed interest in an HDSLR purchase, which leads me to ask 'How many of us have HDSLRs?'

Let us know your body and/or your lenses by posting below!

Also, feel free to post anything else regarding workflows, questions, reactions, tests, lenses, anything. This stuff is ripe for discussion, and there are still lots of questions to be answered, so here's a thread dedicated to all of us HDSLR filmmakers! biggrin
Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 12:17pm

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Simon K Jones

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We've got a 550D here at work, currently with a lone 50mm f1.8 lens. We used it to shoot our bits of the FXhome Awards video, and I'm going to be using it as 2nd camera on a 48hour challenge this coming weekend.

One question for more experienced people: What's the best workflow when using Sony Vegas and Adobe Premiere? Neither of them handle the files off the camera particularly well, even though they can handle HD stuff without any problems normally.
Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 2:18pm

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Axeman

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I've got a 7D. I don't have a lot in the way of lenses right now, but a terrific resource if you can't afford the really nice glass is www.borrowlenses.com or www.lensrentals.com . Provides opportunity to use the really nice, really fast lenses without having to drop thousands of dollars. And theya re reliable and great to work with.
Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 4:30pm

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Sollthar

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I don't have mine yet, but I will in about 2 weeks when my order finally arrives. smile
Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 5:01pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Rating: +1

Tarn wrote:

What's the best workflow when using Sony Vegas and Adobe Premiere? Neither of them handle the files off the camera particularly well, even though they can handle HD stuff without any problems normally.
I use Neo Scene from Cineform. It converts the video that the camera shoots into avi's, and does something to up the colour space as well so that the footage holds up better in post. It's pretty essential for editing I would say.

http://www.cineform.com/neoscene/
Posted: Wed, 7th Apr 2010, 8:41pm

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rogolo

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I'm excited to see what you are gonna do with an HDSLR in your hands, Solly! biggrin I'm guessing you already have a set of lenses on hand from the 35mm adapter?

If anyone with a Mac is looking to pick up a Canon HDSLR, the workflow is pretty slick. You can either edit the original footage directly (which I have done with my 3 year old Macbook Pro) or, better yet, use the Final Cut plug-in posted by Garrison. You can easily log and convert your video in the 'Log & Transfer' window, so anyone with an HVX/HPX series cam should feel right at home:



If you are using footage from a T2i/550D (as I am in the above example), you need to use this small "hack" to add compatibility. Nothing major - takes under 30 seconds and it's so worth it wink
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 12:13am

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Aculag

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I plan to buy one this summer!
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 12:29am

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Thrawn

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Heading out to the local Shutter Bug to test one out right now. Planning on getting one in a month or so, once I have the coin to make the purchase. I'm also going to get a 50mm f1.8 lens to start off with. I'd also like to eventually invest in a nice zoom lens, but that'll be a little bit down the road after I buy a new lighting set and audio rig.

Thanks for the link Axeman! And Swinton as well. Awesome stuff.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 1:15am

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Toruk Macto

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i plan to get a 7d also this summer - if I can
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 1:20am

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Serpent

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I'm putting my rig on ebay this week, and I'll be using the money on a T2i. Here's the rig, the HDSLR will sit on those rails and shoulder mount, and I'll use that Beachtek adapter:



And with the leftover money, I'll be getting this follow focus:

http://indisystem.com/products_indifocus20.htm

and an underwater housing. I'll post pics of the rig when I get it. Already have monitor, jib, dolly, snorricam, diy steadicam, and fluid head tripod.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 2:42am

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Arktic

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I don't own one myself, but know enough people who do own them to be able to use one whenever I need, really.

My housemate has a 7D, and it looks like my work might be investing in a 550D. I'm just in the middle of finishing an episode of the 5:19 TV show where we used a 7D as an additional camera (of Cascada's new song 'Pyromania'). Tune in to watch the show on BBC 2, Saturday lunchtime at 12:55, or watch on iPlayer!

Back to the edit! biggrin

Cheers,
Arktic.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 2:56am

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Atom

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I wish I was part of the cool kids with cool cameras club. (CKCCCâ„¢)
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 3:45am

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doppelganger

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Getting a T2i on June 4th with a 50mm 1.4, H4N recorder, Glidecam HD2000, indislider, lcd screen, and several sdhc cards... all of this comes out right under $2,500 which amazes me.

Last edited Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 8:50pm; edited 2 times in total.

Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 4:11am

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Garrison

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I shall be getting my 7D on Friday. Looking forward to it.

Incidentally those who are interested in a training DVD for the Canon 5D and 7D, they are now discounted from their original price. Philip Bloom is a well known DP and his videos are quite entertaining.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 6:23am

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CX3

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I have a 7D. And love the hell out of it.

28-135mm & 50mm 1.8

Just got my Zoom H4n as well wink
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 6:38am

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sfbmovieco

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I have a T2i and I love it!
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 8:17am

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Simon K Jones

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Wow, didn't know so many people were gearing up with these things.

I'm sorely tempted to get one myself, actually, as I've always wanted a nice DSLR for photography purposes. Tempting, so tempting...

Thanks for all the workflow tips, guys, I will test them out prior to this weekend's frantic editing!

Edit: Even better, looks like the NeoScene trial lasts 7 days, fully functional, so I should be able to test it out fully 'in the field' this weekend before deciding whether to purchase it or not.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 9:08am

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Hybrid-Halo

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I also have a 550D. I picked up a 50mm 1.8 prime lens to go with the kit 18-55 too. Cool Camera.
Posted: Thu, 8th Apr 2010, 4:17pm

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Axeman

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So now we can say they are used by people in the industry. wink
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 1:24am

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Toruk Macto

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For the 7D need I to get a UV protection filter? apart from the 50mm f/1.8 II lens and the 28-135mm?
Thanks a lot - I am so excited about DLSRS!!!!!!!
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 1:37am

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Aculag

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CompositeCloneOfMax wrote:

For the 7D need I to get a UV protection filter? apart from the 50mm f/1.8 II lens and the 28-135mm?
You don't need one, but you should get one for each of your lenses, just as extra protection for the glass. Beats having to replace the entire lens if it gets scratched. Just think of it as lens insurance.
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 1:42am

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Toruk Macto

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okay thanks a lot BTW I should only get 50mm stuff right?
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 2:46am

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Aculag

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I assume you're talking about the dimensions for your filters? That's going to vary depending on the diameter of the lens, and you'll just have to get whatever works for your particular lens. For example, I have an 18-55mm lens for my SLR, but the filter diameter is 58mm. My HVX200 on the other hand, has a filter diameter of 82mm. It just depends on the lens. It will usually say on the front of the lens what diameter the threads for the filter are.
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 5:13pm

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Toruk Macto

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ok, if I have the money...

A Canon 7d (wv 28-135mm lens)

A 50mm f/1.8 lens

A Canon EW78BII Lens hood

A Zeikos ZE-UV52 52mm Multi-Coated UV Filter

And...hopefully, a Gitzo GM3551 Series 3 6X Carbon Fiber 5-Section Monopod with G-Lock!

And a Zoom H4n also.

Any better suggestions?
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 5:23pm

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ben3308

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Rating: +2

You don't need a monopod, really. A screw, some twine, and some washers do the same thing if you screw the screw into the camera, connect to it the twine, and let the twine run down to washers that you stand on; pulling the line tight. This stabilizes most SLR shooting for me, at least. That, and steady hands.
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 5:32pm

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Toruk Macto

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but I like the fact you can perch it above people's heads and swing it around smile
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 5:53pm

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Serpent

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On longer lenses, I never shoot without a monopod (or tripod, but usually mono). With stills anyways. Video I always use tripod. Never tried the twine trick though. +1 for the tip.
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 6:18pm

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Toruk Macto

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right did not think about the long long lenses. Thanks a lot guys
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 7:29pm

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Garrison

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CompositeCloneOfMax wrote:

ok, if I have the money...

A Canon 7d (wv 28-135mm lens)

A 50mm f/1.8 lens

A Canon EW78BII Lens hood

A Zeikos ZE-UV52 52mm Multi-Coated UV Filter

And...hopefully, a Gitzo GM3551 Series 3 6X Carbon Fiber 5-Section Monopod with G-Lock!

And a Zoom H4n also.

Any better suggestions?
no memory cards?
Posted: Fri, 9th Apr 2010, 7:34pm

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Toruk Macto

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I will start of with a 8 giga one that I have already than will upgrade.
Posted: Tue, 13th Apr 2010, 8:18am

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Simon K Jones

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Shot with a 550D this weekend in a 48-hour challenge. Really responsive little camera and the footage looked great. The quality of the screen on the camera really helps get a good shot. It also coped marvellously with some very low light sequences.

We used it in combination with an HVX, which was the perfect partner.
Posted: Tue, 13th Apr 2010, 8:21am

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Staff Only

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Buying a 7D this summer, which will mark the first time I own my own camera (I've got by on calling in favors and borrowing from school. I took the part in DVRebel where they mention the Rodriguez List a little to literally.)

I'd like to think that I haven't got a camera before now because I couldn't find anything I liked within my budget, but when I saw the 7D it was love at first sight. smile
Posted: Thu, 15th Apr 2010, 4:39pm

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Toruk Macto

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which one is better
a redrock micro eyespy standard DSLR rig
or
a zacuto dslr rapid fire?
Posted: Thu, 15th Apr 2010, 6:43pm

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Garrison

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To my knowledge, Zacuto doesn't make the RapidFire anymore - or the others like the Sniper. They have new rigs on their site. Unless you are purchasing the RapidFire from another site getting rid of old stock.

Zacuto products are really pricey. They do give it a lifetime warranty but I'm not sure it justifies the price tag. Don't get me wrong though, looking at some of their videos, their quality looks good.

I have the Redrock shoulder mount and I like it for the price.

So I guess it depends on your budget because Zacuto tends to be almost double that of RedRock.
Posted: Thu, 15th Apr 2010, 6:54pm

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Toruk Macto

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thanks I like the redrock micro also - so that in the future if I want a follow focus later on,
Posted: Fri, 16th Apr 2010, 7:52pm

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Staff Only

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The House M.D. season finale was recently filmed on a Canon 5D. That really says something about HDSLRs being used to film stuff now that professionals are doing it.

Link.

LINK FIXED.

Last edited Sat, 17th Apr 2010, 12:10am; edited 1 times in total.

Posted: Fri, 16th Apr 2010, 8:30pm

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Axeman

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Shane Hurlbutt has been using the 7D and 5D to film pro stuff for quite a while now. He used them to film some scenes in Terminator: Salvation, among other things.
Posted: Fri, 16th Apr 2010, 9:16pm

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Staff Only

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Axeman wrote:

Shane Hurlbutt...
It's sad really that all I think about when I hear that name is: "Are you a professional or not?!"

When I sat down to watch Swing Vote a few weeks ago and Hurlbutt's name appeared on screen we paused the movie to, once again, have a laugh about Bale's rant. Sad that one of the world most known Cinematographers (a relatively unknown profession to the masses), is known for having his ass handed to him (butt hurled at him) by Christian Bale.

Still interesting that HDSLRs have been used in feature films which have the chance to use 35mm film.
Posted: Fri, 16th Apr 2010, 11:24pm

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rogolo

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Staff Only wrote:

Still interesting that HDSLRs have been used in feature films which have the chance to use 35mm film.
35mm isn't always an option, however. The form factor of HDSLRs allow a cinematographer to get shots which would otherwise be impossible (or extremely costly) on a 35mm. HDSLRs can easily be mounted on the ends of guns, suspended in a ceiling corner for a wide master, used in close quarters or action sequences, etc. The dirt cheap cost of $800 also makes it an ideal crash cam biggrin

I will definitely have to keep an eye out for the House finale. Here's an article in English which includes a short Twitter Q&A with the director. Most surprisingly (to me) was that they did most of their shooting without any form of stabilization.
Posted: Sat, 17th Apr 2010, 12:10am

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Staff Only

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rogolo wrote:

Here's an article in English which includes a short Twitter Q&A with the director. Most surprisingly (to me) was that they did most of their shooting without any form of stabilization.
Darn! I searched that article up on Google for the specific reason of not posting a link to something written in Norwegian on an English speaking forum. I just copied the wrong link. Sorry about that. I'll edit.
Posted: Sat, 17th Apr 2010, 3:30am

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ben3308

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It's okay, as an English (and Spanish! Aha!) speaker, Norwegian just looks like me like someone got drunk and decided to blog about their experience while on PCP. biggrin
Posted: Sat, 17th Apr 2010, 3:48am

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Aculag

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Hmm. I can't stand House, but I will probably have to watch the finale just to see how it looks!
Posted: Sun, 18th Apr 2010, 12:49am

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Evman

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I spent the weekend shooting a film on the 5D. If you light it well (and even kinda if you don't) it looks RIDICULOUS. The only downside is that there are no onboard mic inputs, so you've gotta record your audio separately and sync it up later, which can be a bitch... but it's cheap.

I plan on shooting my own film with it in two weeks using a borrowed shoulder mount rig from a friend. Really really looking forward to the portability, especially when shooting in tiny apartments, etc.
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 8:21am

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Simon K Jones

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We shot our 48 hour film partially on a 550D. You can see the end results here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABt34vwAyFw

It's a mix of 550D and HVX-200. None of the footage was graded due to time constraints.

Given our vastly limited lighting equipment and time constraints I was pretty pleased with how it came out. The 550D was also AMAZING in low light areas, where the HVX was useless.
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 4:38pm

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Toruk Macto

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hi guys,

i got my 7D! it is fantastic, going to shoot a movie to try it out, however...

how do you slow down 60p footage into 24p on Final Cut Express 4? I tried t in export-quicktime conversions-options, but it doesn't do anything when I import it back into iMovie.

And when shooting in movie mode, can we view images through the viewfinder or only in the LCD screen? I really want to know the answers, thanks guys.

Cheers,

CCOM
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 4:43pm

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Axeman

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Are you trying to create slow-motion by slowing down the footage? Or just trying to use 60p footage in a 24p project at actual speed?

You have to use the LCD to shoot video. Due to the mirror system in SLR's it isn't really feasible to frame through the viewfinder for video. Here's a tip: use the 10x magnification on the LCD to get your focus set perfectly.
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 4:58pm

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Toruk Macto

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#1 - i am trying to slow down the 60p footage to 24p slo-mo, i heard it is really good slo-mo.
#2 - will do, thanks for the tip.

Cheers,

CCOM
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 5:56pm

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Garrison

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I don't know if FCE comes with Cinema Tools like FCP, but if it does:

Open Cinema Tools>File>Batch Convert>23.98

Once you convert the 60fps footage, you can't undo it in any way.
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 6:02pm

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Toruk Macto

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oh man, it doesn't!!! frown frown frown frown frown
anybody?
Posted: Mon, 19th Apr 2010, 6:12pm

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rogolo

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Use the speed tools. CMD+J while selecting the clip on the timeline.

Make sure to turn off frame blending where applicable.
Posted: Fri, 23rd Apr 2010, 8:29am

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Simon K Jones

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This might be of interest to all you DSLR shooters:

http://blog.vincentlaforet.com/2010/04/21/free-3-day-hddslr-cinema-workshop-starts-streaming-on-april-30th/
Posted: Fri, 23rd Apr 2010, 9:19am

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Aculag

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Ooh, I'm only a three hour drive from Seattle... Of course, I haven't bought my camera yet... Hmm.
Posted: Fri, 23rd Apr 2010, 3:58pm

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Axeman

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Keep in mind also that you don't have to actually go to Seattle. You can stay right at home and watch the entire workshop streaming live over the net. And even interact with the instructor live to some degree.

And FYI: Vincent Laforet, the instructor of this workshop, is the guy Canon hired to create the demo reel for their HD DSLR's, to show what they are capable of. He really knows his stuff.
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 1:57am

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Aculag

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Somehow I completely skimmed over the "streaming" part. Heh.
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 6:33am

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Garrison

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And the streaming live is FREE!
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 6:49am

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Axeman

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Indeed, its absolutely free if you watch the streaming live event. Or you can pay to download it afterward.

I actually created a topic about these classes a while ago, which managed to get pretty well overlooked. I've been attending several of them for the last few weeks, and they really are fantastic.
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 8:17am

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Thrawn

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Totally attending. Thanks for the link Axeman. I'm so excited about getting my T2i in a month. The more I look at these cameras, the more I'm impressed.
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 8:22am

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Aculag

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Yep, registered for the stream. Even though I won't have my camera yet, I'll be taking notes. smile
Posted: Sat, 24th Apr 2010, 5:42pm

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Hybrid-Halo

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I just figured something cool out regarding the 550D and matching elements you add's grain. Will elaborate more on this later when I have a working example.
Posted: Wed, 5th May 2010, 8:38pm

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doppelganger

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Hello everyone just got a T2i and looooovveee it! Also someone posted some kind of program that changes the T2i's files and makes them easier to edit but I can't remember what it was called and I've already searched fxhome threads for it for 2 days. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Posted: Wed, 5th May 2010, 10:06pm

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rogolo

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doppelganger wrote:

someone posted some kind of program that changes the T2i's files and makes them easier to edit but I can't remember what it was called and I've already searched fxhome threads for it for 2 days
Hehe, well your 2 day quest seems to have come to an end. smile

Check out the first page of this thread where Swintonmaximilian posted a solution for Windows, while I posted one for Final Cut users.
Posted: Tue, 11th May 2010, 2:25pm

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Simon K Jones

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Soooo, this is an interesting development:

http://blog.discover.sonystyle.com/sneak-peek-new-sony-camcorder-in-development
Posted: Tue, 11th May 2010, 11:13pm

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Atom

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Might Sony win me back over? I don't know just yet.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 12:36am

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Aculag

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Panasonic have a very similar cam in the works.

More info

Definitely an interesting time for video! I guarantee Canon is working on something combining their DSLRs with a video form factor.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 2:09am

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Rockfilmers

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I would like to see who markets the first 2K hdslr. HD is almost there with 1080p but you know people would drool over 2K. Compared to an AHP-C sensor, how big is a micro 4/3rds, any one know? I'm sure this camera is going to be between 3000-5000 dollars.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 2:46am

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ben3308

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Is anyone at all worried about having editing systems that can handle all these image advancements, though? Even with a sh!t ton of RAM (16gb) and an i7 in the editing computer we use, we still run into problems from time to time - long renders, 64-bit incomatibility, etc.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 2:57am

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Aculag

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Hell, I'm worried about how my system fares NOW. It's only got 1.5gb RAM, and it's five years old. It's definitely getting to be upgrade time. I haven't edited anything on it in over a year, but once I get my T2i, I'm going to want to, and it's probably not going to be able to keep up, especially if I want to do some AE stuff.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 3:17am

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ben3308

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Okay, here's the deal:

I'm trying to order a T2i with a kit lens with rush delivery so that I can use it for a video race on Saturday, but it's backordered almost everywhere. Does anyone know anywhere (legit) that has it in stock?

This is semi-urgent...wink
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 3:43am

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Aculag

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Have you checked Amazon? You're going to end up paying a little more, but they have it in stock.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 4:21am

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ben3308

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Yeah, but I never understood the whole 'seller' aspect, and I dunno who 'DBRoth' is, really. And reviews elsewhere for the seller don't look good.

Damn, I really wanted to use this on Friday/Saturday.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 4:55am

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Aculag

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The seller thing is just like Ebay, but since it's through Amazon, it's supposedly more trustworthy. His reviews seem fine, and if you're really desperate to get one, I'd say that's your best shot. It's a retail thing. Amazon doesn't actually stock them at the factory or whatever, but they sell it through various resellers. It was a different one when I posted that link.

I guess the other option is to go around to retail shops in your area? I'm assuming you've already done that, though. I know of at least one retail shop in my area that has them in stock, but they charge too much.

It really sucks that B&H doesn't stock more frequently, though. They are my preferred reseller for video stuff, and it's been sold out for over a month.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 8:38am

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Simon K Jones

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As tempted as I have been to get a 550D, I'm quite glad I'm holding off so far. In a year-or-two I reckon the market will have settled into something more mature in terms of the HDSLR/camcorder blend, which will have resolved the niggly few issues with the current gen.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 9:01am

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Aculag

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As much as there is to be said about waiting for newer/more refined technology to come around, there will always be something newer and better just around the corner. I think it's likely that a lot of the issues with the current cameras can be solved with firmware updates.

Last edited Wed, 12th May 2010, 9:03am; edited 1 times in total.

Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 9:03am

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Simon K Jones

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Yeah, definitely. The important thing with technology is "to buy it when you need it", otherwise you'll be waiting forever, as you say.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 1:15pm

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Rockfilmers

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Some thing I would love to see is a fix for the CMOS artifacts (jello-cam). I don't know why no one has made a global shutter for CMOS like the do for ccd. It is able to be done, but nobody is doing it. I would also love to see better monitoring options come up, but I think that can be a firmware thing.
Posted: Wed, 12th May 2010, 2:14pm

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ben3308

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Because 3CCDs meant colors processed separately, not sections. To do the same things with CMOS means multiple CMOS sensors, which means higher price. Probably significantly.
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 2:10am

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ben3308

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Sorry to double post, but my family just bought a T2i and two 16gb Class 10 SDHC cards. I urged my dad to get a Class 6 card versus Class 4, but he opted for 10. Smart man.

Sort of a 'woo-hoo!' moment for me, I suppose.

My brother and I still plan on purchasing a DSLR or new camera in the foreseeable future, but my parents/younger siblings getting one for themselves means we can use it for all our Dallas-based projects and still save up for whatever the future holds.

Expect a cool DSLR 24 hour contest video this Sunday. biggrin
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 3:28am

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Rockfilmers

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Nice, Ben, I sure you'll have fun. I just finished shooting a short film tonight with my 7D (five days over two weeks). Expect it some time next week smile
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 6:08am

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Aculag

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Can I ask where you ended up buying it from?
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 7:11am

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Atom

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Fry's Electronics. The scammiest (physical store, not website) place on Earth.
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 7:19am

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Aculag

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Oh yeah, Fry's sucks. Well at least you got one! Look forward to seeing what you guys pull off with it.
Posted: Thu, 13th May 2010, 9:48pm

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Serpent

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Is the 550D PAL, NTSC, or both? Say I found a 550D, would it be the same as the Rebel just with the Euro name?

I personally prefer the Euro naming system, Rebel makes it stand out from the other Canon DSLRs and it sounds kind of silly (though it has grown on me). And the 550D seems to be more available, just higher shipping. Which is better than paying for the low supply high demand US price.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 1:34am

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doppelganger

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On the T2i you can choose whether you want to record in Pal or NTSC, so I'm assuming it's the same on the 550D. Honestly if I had known that I would have gotten the 550D, childish I know but it looks more professional and the word "REBEL" in red on the camera makes it look like a consumer camera... oh well I love it anyways

Also I know this isn't "Post your t2i videos!" thread but I made this video the 2nd day I had it. Mainly a cool little editing test with good music but it can give people an idea of what the t2i can do on VERY VERY minimal knowledge of the camera

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2hzjwJh1mk

Last edited Fri, 14th May 2010, 2:19am; edited 1 times in total.

Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 2:10am

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Serpent

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Awesome, I think I'll be ordering a 550D either Monday or Tuesday, as well as an SD card and follow focus. I am SO excited, this will make shooting any kind of video so much easier and better.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 3:55am

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Atom

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Probably, in all honesty, not that much easier- since audio and computing power will still be new issues that arise while others fall- but yes, it will make it better.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 10:04am

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Garrison

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Rockfilmers wrote:

Some thing I would love to see is a fix for the CMOS artifacts (jello-cam). I don't know why no one has made a global shutter for CMOS like the do for ccd. It is able to be done, but nobody is doing it. I would also love to see better monitoring options come up, but I think that can be a firmware thing.
The Foundry has a rolling shutter plug-in to deal with in post if you have AE.

But it's probably cheaper to shoot around it wink But nice to know it's there.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 1:45pm

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Rockfilmers

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The Foundry has a rolling shutter plug-in to deal with in post if you have AE.

But it's probably cheaper to shoot around it But nice to know it's there.
Thanks Garrison, yeah, I've seen that before. I try to combat it as much as I can myself, but that usually gives me mixed results.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 2:22pm

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Serpent

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Atom wrote:

Probably, in all honesty, not that much easier- since audio and computing power will still be new issues that arise while others fall- but yes, it will make it better.
I have a Beachtek adapter and mic which fits in my Lowepro camera backpack, which I carry a lot, and my old camera rig was MUCH more tedious. Basically my point was, if I need to shoot video and I'm out and about, I don't need to think to consciously bring clean tapes, giant video camera bag, lens adapter, move lenses from SLR bag into video camera bag, etc. And the fact that it looks like a DSLR makes shooting video anywhere easier. I am very patient in post production. So yeah, for me, the HDSLR is going to make *shooting* video much easier. I like shooting a lot of nature stuff too when I go hiking for snakes, which also doesn't require audio. No matter how much I love video, I NEVER brought my camcorder/35mm adapter rig with me because it was simply too much of a hassle, but I always brought my SLR.
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 5:13pm

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Atom

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Serpent wrote:

when I go hiking for snakes
unsure ?
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 5:33pm

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ben3308

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He loves herpetology. You could say he's "caught the herp".
Posted: Fri, 14th May 2010, 7:12pm

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Serpent

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Indeed I have. razz Worst scientific name ever. Field herping is actually really fun, at least for me.

Nevermind, all I was trying to say was that I always have an SLR around my shoulder, so I'll always be able to shoot nice video no matter where I am or what I'm doing.
Posted: Sun, 16th May 2010, 8:45am

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Atom

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Got the T2i in. Christened it with a videorace. Worked out nicely, even if the movie/lighting/settings were a little haphazard.

I mean, why wouldn't we de-virginize it on our favorite things: timed film competitions. smile
Posted: Mon, 17th May 2010, 11:43pm

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Serpent

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The only 550Ds I could find were from mixed reviewed ebay sites, usually based in Hong Kong, that can be difficult to deal with. So I went with the uglier logo'd T2i through BestBuy.com.

For those hunting around for one, BestBuy.com seems to be the best online dealer right now for the T2i, offering the MSRP, warranty, relatively fast shipping, good reputation, and excellent customer service. It also has the option of purchasing a 3 year warranty on it.

I am so excited for this camera to come in. Mine will be "de-virginized" at the 48 Hour Film Project in my city in early June, but I've got a bit of time before then to mess around with it. I might shoot some ProjectMute tests or make a little cinematography/editing/color test to some music or something.


EDIT: Also, thought this was funny, and Hybrid just posted about these Hitler translation videos in the piracy thread:

http://vimeo.com/9309973
Posted: Thu, 20th May 2010, 5:13pm

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Serpent

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Sorry for the double post, but something wonderful arrived at my door today. smile

Surprisingly it can shoot video on my crappy free 2GB card, but I ordered a class 10 32GB from B and H, so I'm just waiting on that. I'll probably put together a test at the beginning of next week.

So far I've just been mastering the manual controls and menus, which didn't take long considering this is my third Canon DSLR. I'm going to make a $5 hardware store follow focus (useful link by the way if you want to nail your focus using markers without having to pay for a follow focus, great if you have a stage hand to use as 1st AC):

http://hackaday.com/2010/01/22/hardware-store-follow-focus/

which will hopefully work on my 50mm 1.8 as the focus ring on this lens is really not ideal for video I've noticed. My other three lenses have a lot more "give" and smoothness to them. Ooooh and I can't wait to shoot some 1:1 macro stuff, I haven't seen much macro footage from the T2i/7D.
Posted: Thu, 20th May 2010, 9:38pm

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Sick Boy

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What about ISO? How do i exactly know how high i should put the ISO number while recording?
Posted: Thu, 20th May 2010, 10:18pm

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Serpent

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Rating: +1

Well, depends on your light. Say it's slightly dark out, and you are shooting at 60 shutter 400ISO, but you need to capture a rain drop without motion blur, so you crank your shutter speed up, but the resulting image is too dark and your aperture is already wide open. Your only option is to:

A) Increase the light

B) Increase the ISO

Increasing the ISO will give you more grain, but sometimes it's necessary. You'll get a feel for balancing your settings to capture what you want to capture. Just know how each setting affects your image and shoot as often as you can on full manual. The lower the ISO, the better.
Posted: Fri, 21st May 2010, 6:54pm

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ben3308

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Fundamentally, too, the most veritable way to rid yourself of grain is to spend money on the good stuff. That's really it.

You either buy lights, and light your scenes more, or buy more expensive glass, like the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 prime (which I tested yesterday against the MUCH cheaper EF 50mm f/1.8 ) wherein you can shoot ISO400 indoors with only available light and still get reasonably fast, reasonably bright results.
Posted: Fri, 21st May 2010, 9:44pm

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Axeman

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The f1.4 isn't that much more expensive than the f1.8 is it? Only $300 or so. The f1.2 is where you see a massive price difference, as it is like $1100 more than the f1.8.
Posted: Fri, 21st May 2010, 10:50pm

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ben3308

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The whole 'not that much more expensive' is real, though, because the 1.4 may only be 400 dollars, but that's roughly 4x the price of the 1.8. The quality in the focusing ability, bokeh, and build quality is what you're paying for, but on the whole, if money is important to you then the differences aren't that vast.

Also, the 1.2 is NOT worth the money over the 1.4.
Posted: Sat, 22nd May 2010, 3:02am

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Serpent

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Actually the 1.0 and 1.2L are definitely worth the money for the professional. The build quality is MUCH better on Canon's L series lenses. My 2 L lenses are pretty indestructible, somewhat sand-proof, weather-proof, top quality materials. It's like the difference between the Rebel line and the EOS professional line. Sometimes the line is thinner than the price, but it all comes down to what you're using it for.
Posted: Sat, 22nd May 2010, 4:24am

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ben3308

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The 1.0, yeah, but not the 1.2. It's a comparative waste of money, you should save up more and get a better L-series or a Zeiss.
Posted: Sat, 22nd May 2010, 7:45pm

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Sick Boy

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Oh, i'm messing with the 550d manu and there is some stuff i don't get, for instant, the highlight tone priority -option, should this be enabled?? What about the picture style option? This doesn't effect the video adjustments?

think
Posted: Tue, 25th May 2010, 6:57pm

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ben3308

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Picture Styles are something you want to look into. Essentially, you'll get better dynamic range if you shoot a slightly flatter, slightly softer image through the camera.

This means in Picture Styles, you dial down the Sharpness just a bit (NOT all the way, I'll explain this in a second) and dial down contrast, etc. The object is to get a less contrasted, flatter image. Why?

Well, the ultimate goal is to get your camera image to be as unadulterated as possible. By dialing down the sharpness, you're making sure the camera doesn't add any itself that would equivalently look bad if you added it in post (sharpness = artifacting, bad) and by lowering contrast, you're gaining a slightly better range of tones for the camera to pick up, so that you yourself can dial back up the contrast as you see fit in post.

Picture Styles made 'flat' as such are best done under the 'Neutral' setting, I've found. Also, using the EOS Utility that comes with the camera, you can download and register to the T2i special, custom-made Picture Styles. I've found one 'Cine' one that produces a contrast S-curve, which is ideal for getting that contrasty-but-still-pretty-evenly-toned David Fincher, reversal film stock look.

Now, MY recommendation would be that, if you want a flatter, higher-range image, just use the S-curve preset I just linked and you're no worse for wear. However, if you want to make your own low contrast, low sharpness Picture Style, be wary that lowering the sharpness all the way closes out the camera's ability to pick up all the color information it needs - evidenced by a call I made to Canon tech support - so if you go softer, don't go all the way.

But seriously, Marvel Cine Picture Style and Highlight Tone Priority enabled. That is, after testing, what I've found to look best.
Posted: Tue, 25th May 2010, 9:08pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Tru Dat Ben, if you want maximum flexibility when it comes to grading go for as flat a "digital negative" as you can, that way you have more room in post. I use a picture profile called superflat which you'll find if you google it.
Posted: Tue, 25th May 2010, 9:31pm

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ben3308

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I'd rather have moderate flexibility and still have the ability to have high contrast, I suppose. The super-flat means less chance for total high contrast in the grade. Less nuanced, but the ability to go more extreme if need be. Cool thought, though, didn't know there was another specific preset.
Posted: Tue, 25th May 2010, 11:08pm

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swintonmaximilian

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But it doesn't mean that at all. All it does is get the maximum latitude out of the camera, the contrast is there, but you're getting more shadow and highlight detail. You can pump the contrast as much as you like in post. Also important to white balance correctly to get the most latitude of course.

Also, it's a good idea to use neoscene from cineform to transcode the cameras movie files into the neoscene avi codec, which is 10 bit 4:2:2. It gives you a lot more room in post to push the grading. Of course that's from a windows pc point of of view, but you can get it for the mac too.
Posted: Tue, 25th May 2010, 11:21pm

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Axeman

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For the Mac side, you can also use MPEGStreamclip to convert to Apple ProRes.

In the Intro to Video on HD DSLR's course that Vincent Laforet hosted on creativeLIVE a while back (you can still buy the downloads of the workshop for quite cheap), he went through all of the settings on the Canons, including picture styles, explaining where everything should be set for video work. He basically recommended turning everything down as well, to keep the raw footage relatively flat, so it could better be processed later.
Posted: Wed, 26th May 2010, 12:14am

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Serpent

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I've been using Compressor, which converts pretty fast batch. But the best FCP workflow right now is the modified FCP EOS plugin that converts to Prores on the fly through log and transfer.

Anyways, I did my first "proper" T2i test (besides turning the camera on and dicking around) with lights and tripod in low light (can't wait to use jib/dolly/diy steadicam, and snorricam!). With my new light kit I was able to shoot at 100ISO at the darkest hour of night even with an f/4 lens. Previewing on the laptop was a godsend. This was me and my friends at 10PM saying "hey, you want to test out our gear before the 48 hour film project?" It took us 3 hours so shoot a 3 minute "short film" (it's really just nonsensical action and dialogue scenes to try out different kinds of shots, lenses, lighting arrangements, and workflows (After Effects work for some)). We still need another day of practice, probably, in setting up everything in a timely fashion, setting markers for focus, etc. My DIY follow focus works AMAZINGLY well. I've referenced it beofore and I'll reference it again:

http://hackaday.com/2010/01/22/hardware-store-follow-focus/

Anyways, here's one of the shots from this short as well as a wide behind-the-scenes shot of the setup. I'll post the short later if anyone is interested in seeing the result, but it was made to show my team (most of which who weren't there) what the new equipment would do, so it's specifically targeted at them.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a82/GameNight/IMG_0271.jpg


Click to view in new window/tab.
(No color correction, screen shot of FCP window at a smaller res than 100%. Shot 200mm, f/4, t/60. Ideally I would have put a fill on the background to make the shot more interesting, but we were just trying to get something done)

Here's another shot, f/1.8, t/60, 100ISO, 50mm:
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/9363/picture16u.png

Comments/questions welcome.
Posted: Wed, 26th May 2010, 6:57pm

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Dancamfx

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Im still saving for a Canon 5D MarkII with this lens

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=WishList.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=264304&is=USA&mode=edu

Ive heard in about 14 months Canon will release the 5D Mark III so I'll probably go for that.


Just a heads up to everyone who is interested in buying a HDSLR, the lens you buy for your kit can make or break your image. Dont spend all your money on a body and cheap out on the lens. smile
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 4:10pm

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RodyPolis

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Will it really break my image that much though? I'm getting the 550d in a week, but I won't have money for a decent lens so I'll just use the kit lens and upgrade later. Even with the kit lens the footage should still be pretty amazing right? I mean, with all the praise I've been hearing over these cameras I would assume you'd still get great results.

But then again, I don't know crap when it comes to lenses. Never really used a camera that advance. Hopefully I'll learn of these in college.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 6:25pm

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Rockfilmers

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Will it really break my image that much though? I'm getting the 550d in a week, but I won't have money for a decent lens so I'll just use the kit lens and upgrade later. Even with the kit lens the footage should still be pretty amazing right? I mean, with all the praise I've been hearing over these cameras I would assume you'd still get great results.

But then again, I don't know crap when it comes to lenses. Never really used a camera that advance. Hopefully I'll learn of these in college.
No, it will still be a lot better than other cameras out there, but the lenses are what make the image of an hdslr so amazing. In the past month, I've shot one and a half shorts, (Editing the first, half way through shooting the second) with some cheap, used canon fd prime lenses and an adapter. The lenses I use was a 28mm f/2.8 and a 50mm f/1.8, and for establishing shots a 19mm f/3.5. These three lenses gave me basically everything I need. I already had the 28mm and 50mm from my moms old camera from the 80s and I'm borrowing the 19mm so I kind of got lucky with that, but all together is less than $150 which is great for lenses. A lot of people are talking about the $99 50mm f/1.8 lens and it's great, but a nightmare to focus. I only use my kit lens for pictures and quick video or if I need to go telephoto which is rare for me.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 6:39pm

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Serpent

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Yeah it will still look pretty damn sexy, even though the kit lens is junk. The lens itself isn't as nice as lenses on prosumer cameras (GL1/GL2/DVX100/HDRFX1/etc.), but it has a decent focal range and the camera's sensor allows it to give you a shallow depth of field that the prosumer cameras can't match even with the bright L lenses on the Canon prosumers and equivalents on other brands. It will be good to get you started. But you will want more when you get it, I can guarantee that. If you get sub $500 lenses each time you get a lens, it is still going to look good. L series lenses are going to "make" your image, but I think it's more important to get a decent arsenal of focal ranges before you take the next step. Keep in mind, an L series lens will last you your whole life if you take good care of it. People still have and use their lenses from the 70's. (EDIT-Rockfilmers jumped in before me, made some of my points in his post) So:

get a wide, a bright medium prime (the 50mm is a good range, you'll need this lens for night and run-and-gun indoor shooting), macro for closeups if you want, and a long lens (200mm+ so you can get those tight, thin DOF shots like the conversation shot I just posted from an L series 200mm lens). Your kit lens will cover the most common focal ranges, so that + the lenses I mentioned would be an amazing arsenal, even if the lenses aren't top notch. L series lenses are much more important in still images I'd say, but they are good investments and often worth saving for. Some L series lenses are much much more affordable. I opted for the 70-200 f/4L instead of the 70-200 f/1.8 IS USM, which is over $1,000 more, but my image quality is just as nice and sharp, and to compensate for the f/4, I just light my shots well or shoot in day time with it.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 9:11pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Good points about lenses here, but in reality, no one will be able to tell the difference between a kit lens and a more expensive lens in good light, properly focused, and in the context of a shot in a film.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 9:40pm

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ben3308

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Well, yes, they will. Because the kit lens doesn't create the nice, fuzzed, creamy bokeh that faster lenses do. It would be fallacy to say otherwise (I mean no offense, here). I've shot on a number of cameras, and had a number of films screened in local theaters, and the audience can tell when something is shot at f/8 versus f/2.8. It's obvious.

50mm primes like the Canon 1.2, 1.4, and 1.8 will all yield better depth-of-field (VISIBLY better) than the kit lens, so will the Sigma 50mm 1.4 and the Canon 2.8.

Trust me, with even my best shots on the kit lens thus far, I've yet to get results "better" than my best shots on my GL2. And I know (decently well) what I'm doing for only having the camera 1.5 weeks. Maybe start with just the 50mm prime lens for 100 bucks, and forgo the kit lens. Then you already get a decent 'zoom' already, and better depth-of-field, and a brighter image. The only downsides are focusing during filming (which you shouldn't REALLY be doing too much of anyway) are a softer image when the lens is opened up all the way.

So with the $99 f/1.8 from Canon, if you get the body and it, you lose

1. The ability to 'zoom out' to a wider shot (50mm isn't TOO much of a zoom anyhow, even on cropped sensors) and

2. Focusing is slightly harder

But other than that the bokeh (out-of-focus part of a shot) looks more professional at wider apertures (although the in-focus parts look less crisp, the more blurred background means you get 'apparent sharpness' from the contrast of the two). The lens is made of plastic, which will break if you drop it - but you should expect your equipment to break if you drop it, anyhow.

Positively, it will still be as sharp and as crisp as the kit lens when you shoot at the same apertures the kit offers. So at f/4 the "softness" in the 50mm 1.8 lens is changed to the same sharpness as the kit glass. So it's all the same, you're just adding more depth-of-field and sacrificing wider angles. Which isn't a big deal anyway, just back up. biggrin

And it's 100 dollars. Very cheap in the scheme of things.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 9:48pm

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Dancamfx

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Ive become a huge fan of canons L series lenses. I still think a good lens makes a huge difference but maybe Im just being picky.

Just a heads up on the SLR kits, the lenses in those kits are pretty lame. Very slow and the glass isnt as good as it should be. I'd hold off on the cam until you can afford a better lens cause once you get your new lens your old one will become an expensive paper weight.
Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 10:45pm

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swintonmaximilian

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The point I'm making is not keep the kit lens and don't worry, it's just as good as a Zeiss Prime lens, it's not. Maybe the kit lens is a bad example, I don't even actually have it. What I'm saying is, if I film you something with my canon 50mm 1.8 and my Nikkor 50mm 1.4, and they are both on say f11, you would not be able to tell the difference.

Obviously if you filmed something at f8 versus f2.8 the audience could tell the difference, but you couldn't film anything for which the light dictates the correct aperture is f8 at f2.8 anyway, at least not without a strong nd filter.

I wasn't talking about depth of field at all, and I wasn't saying that there would be no difference, just that it perhaps wouldn't be that noticeable in the context of a shot in a film, but that's from my experience with lenses of the same focal length, in good lighting where you can stop them down to get the most out of them.

And I'm not arguing that a good lens doesn't make a big difference, it really does.

But yeah, the canon 1.8 is a good little lens.

I sound like I really want to fight about this I know, but I don't, it's an interesting discussion and topic and I imagine that a lot of people on this site will never have used an slr or multiple lenses, and it's a daunting subject at first.

Last edited Fri, 28th May 2010, 11:33am; edited 1 times in total.

Posted: Thu, 27th May 2010, 11:26pm

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ben3308

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Yeah, no absolutely, just the kit lens is a bad example. The fluorite glass on my GL2 is far better than the 18-55mm f/4-5.6 that came with my T2i.

ALTHOUGH, I just remembered I have an Olympus 50mm 1.4 prime attached to an old camera in my house, and am now buying an OM-EOS adapter for 20 bucks to test out the vintage glass. It will probably be a bit soft, but I can live with that for a 20 dollar investment. biggrin

I'm using L-series stuff alongside some Zeiss glass and the RED primes on a Mysterium RED coming up in about two weeks, and am pumped to have that selection. It's funny, I always diss renting vs. owning, but when you can rent a whole candy shop of lenses, it feels pretty good. wink
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 12:17am

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Dancamfx

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Its good to own a couple lenses and it would be smart to buy a cinema lens adapter for like $200 so when you work on a bigger film with a budget you can rent some cinema lens and really make some sweet stuff. smile
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 1:29am

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Rockfilmers

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The bad thing about the 50mm lens is that it turns into an 80mm 35mm equivalent on an asp-c sensor (7D, 550d{t2i}). My favorite lens is the 28mm I was talking about because it turns into a 45mm 35mm equivalent which is just slightly wider than normal vision. I can still get decent dof at f/2.8 for tracking shot/ establishing shots/ and even a lot of dialog. Now I do use the 50mm every chance I get, but some times it just has to many restrictions.
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 1:43am

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Axeman

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Well, sometimes every lens has too many restrictions. There isn't any single lens that will work great for everything. That's why you want to have interchangeable lenses in the first place. The advantage of the 50mm is that there is nothing else that comes close in its price range, as far as depth of field, low light performance, and image quality.

Also, keep in mind that only the coverage is equivalent to an 80mm. The depth of field and focal distances of a 50mm o a crop sensor are still exactly the same as a 50mm on a full-frame sensor, you just can't quite fit as much into the frame. The angle of view is all that changes.
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 2:09am

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RodyPolis

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Do you guys have any links that could help me understand all that stuff? I'm sorry to sound so illiterate, but that's just because I've never had to deal with that kind of things before. All my shoots I've done to this day has mostly been point and shoot. Not that I really had a choice; my HDD camera is pretty much the only thing I've used (except for Chosen when I used a prosumer cam, but that was still kinda point and shoot.)

It just seems to me right now that you guys are speaking in code and it makes me mad cause I'm supposed to know all that right? Am I gonna have to wait till I actually get to use higher end stuff to learn all this?
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 6:44am

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ben3308

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Rating: +2

F-stop is the aperture of the camera, and it controls the iris in the same way the human eye's iris works. The wider (more open) the aperture, the higher the f-stop and the lower the f-number.

The widest open most of these DSLR lenses go is f/1.2, which is REALLY wide open. You can, of course, make an f/1.2 lens get smaller in aperture, just as your eye can contract to adjust to light when you step outside. f/1.2 lenses are super expensive, though (like 1500 bucks) so better options that are still good f-numbers are f/1.4 (a standard aperture) and f/1.8 (a standard, usually cheap aperture)

Wide aperture means two things, more light for you to shoot with and shallower depth-of-field. Shooting on a 1.2 lens, if you shoot at f/1.2 a man talking with trees in the background, you may not even be able to tell what the background is. Likewise, if you shoot on that same lens at f/10 you will see blurry, but still pretty clear, trees in the background.

The aperture also has to do with sharpness, and if you shoot with a wide open prime lens, like a Canon f/1.4 (which is 400 dollars) or the Canon f/1.8 (which is only 100 dollars) you may not see crisp figures in focus, no matter what you do.

This is because though wide, open apertures at the 1.2, 1.4, and 1.8 scale give great depth-of-field, they yield relatively 'soft' foreground images for most decently-priced glass on lenses.

Lenses that are this low in f-number as referred to as "fast" in that they open wider and light takes less time to hit the glass, travel inwards, and come back out of the lens. This describes the light's actual 'frequency', which is where the "f" in "f-stop" comes from. But that doesn't really matter.

So that's about it for f-stops. Really 'fast' lenses are generally what you want, because even though at their wide levels the images are soft, they have the capability to produce sharp images at lower f-stops, they can be used in situations with less light, and they create a smoother, blurrier background for the depth-of-field (this is called a 'bokeh')

Anyhow, that's the f-stops we're mentioning.

Then there's zoom length, and that's described in millimeters. To be honest, I never knew exactly how to equate the zoom length listed in mm, so I just came up with a general rule of thumb.

Basically, a 50mm lens means objects appear generally as big as they do to the human eye; if not a bit bigger. So anything smaller in mm than this (like 18mm or 28mm) is going to be a "wide angle" in the general sense of the word. Anything longer is either going to be 'medium' (like 80-85mm) and longer still is 'telephoto' or REALLY zoomed in (any number from 100-ish to like 2,000mm).

If a lens lists a series of millimeters in a range, that means it zooms between that range. The kit lens with the Canon T2i is an 18-55mm lens, meaning it zooms from a wide angle (18mm) to roughly the same size that the human eye sees at (around 45-50mm), and not much more zoomed in. If you're like me, and you often zoom in a good amount to get your shots, this won't work as well for you.

Which, as I mentioned, is where we come to "full frame" and "cropped sensor" listings and how the lenses apply. For most Canon lenses, they go on a "full frame" camera, which is either film plate or full-resolution DSLR. This is mainly on the more expensive SLR's, like the Canon 5D Mark II, or the Canon 1DS. For cameras like the Canon 7D or T2i, there is the use of what is called a "cropped sensor" - in that the camera takes essentially what the "full frame" cams would see, and crops a rectangle out of the middle of that frame to process.

In general, 'cropped' cameras using full-frame lenses (most lenses are like this) are going to then have a different appearance, because the edges are being cropped off. This means that on a 50mm lens, while things appear as large as the human eye, because the lens is meant for a full-frame, the edges are cropped and the image instead looks even more zoomed in, like 80mm instead. As I mentioned, though, I myself like to zoom in to get my shots, and this light 'zoom' from using a "cropped sensor" doesn't bother me - it actually seems better! biggrin

There are, of course, lenses made especially for these "cropped sensors" (like the kit lens, of course) but for the most part, don't worry about those differences.

Hopefully this made things more clear!
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 6:58am

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Dancamfx

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RodyPolis wrote:

Do you guys have any links that could help me understand all that stuff? I'm sorry to sound so illiterate, but that's just because I've never had to deal with that kind of things before. All my shoots I've done to this day has mostly been point and shoot. Not that I really had a choice; my HDD camera is pretty much the only thing I've used (except for Chosen when I used a prosumer cam, but that was still kinda point and shoot.)

It just seems to me right now that you guys are speaking in code and it makes me mad cause I'm supposed to know all that right? Am I gonna have to wait till I actually get to use higher end stuff to learn all this?
It sounds confusing now, but in a few years you'll understand all of it. I didnt start getting into this stuff until I got into college so you'll be ahead of the game. Some of it might make more sense once you start playing around with the manual settings on that new DSLR smile
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 11:16am

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Aculag

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Somewhat off-topic, but I just watched the House season finale, and while I really can't stand that show, it was really, really well shot. Just more proof that DSLRs in experienced hands can be extremely effective. I would venture to guess that 90% of viewers wouldn't be able to discern it from film. Pretty outstanding stuff, even though the show itself is nonsense.
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 1:14pm

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RodyPolis

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That's some nice tips Ben. Definitely helpful, I'll refer to that most many times. I have a feeling once I actually get to experiment with the stuff it'll be easier to get. Thanks
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 1:46pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Yeah, once you have it in your hands and you can experiment with it you'll learn how it works in a practical sense pretty quickly. Takes a while to understand how you can use it all to it's full extent and get to the point that you don't have to think about it any more, it'll become second nature.
Posted: Fri, 28th May 2010, 3:07pm

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Axeman

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Here is a link to a course on digital photography I've been taking. You can buy all 10 classes for only $79, for a few more weeks anyway. Each class is 2 hours long, and they are fantastic. If you are looking to find your footing in dealing with SLR's and interchageable lenses, buying the course and watching the week on Lenses, as well as the weeks on APS vs. Full Frame, Exposure, and Focus are well worth the price. Even though its main aim is photography, all of that stuff deals with how the camera works, which doesn't change a lot from the still photo side to video. Really, every one of the 10 weeks is going to have some info you can benefit from.

By the way, there are only two classes left, but if you want to watch them while they are live, its totally free, and you can participate. There will be other courses offered in the future as well, and all of them are free to watch live.
Posted: Sat, 29th May 2010, 5:22am

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ben3308

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So, I have a neighbor who is a professional photographer and is huge into equipment and collecting. In his attic - which he converted to a darkroom - he's got about 18 old Hasselblad Dual-Lens Reflex cameras, plenty of old plastic Holga and other 'toy' cameras, and even 'hooded' cameras from the 1800's. Also a large format banner printer (72 inch) and a bunch of really high-end imaging equipment.

Basically, he's got a lot of cool stuff. Really cool stuff.

Anyhow, he and his family are good family friends of mine, and tonight while we were all out at dinner I decided to take the T2i with me just to show him the video functions of the new, lower-end EOS cameras. After looking at it, his words were: "So, this is EOS? It can take L-series lenses?"

Obviously, the camera does - and L-series are by far the nicest money can buy. Apparently he's got two L-lenses he's going to let me borrow as long as I leave something expensive of mine (like my GL2) as collateral for him while I use them. Pretty sweet deal! I'll post up some new footage as soon as I get a sample use of these... biggrin

EDIT:

Also, something to add - if you have or have used a Canon GL2, you're already shooting on an L-series lens. The GL2 may have an SD, older image sensor, but the lens is L-series, 84mm-? (whatever 20x optical zoom figures out to) f/1.4-2.6 with Image Stabilization and a front internal fluorite element. The reason I used (and continue to use) the GL2 for so long is that its glass is really, really nice compared to other competitors.

So generally, if you were to buy the GL2 lens equivalent separate for an SLR, you'd be investing at least 2 or 3 thousand dollars into it. Something to think about - these SLRs are great, but I'm thousands of dollars away from getting to use the quality of glass that I'm used to.
Posted: Sat, 29th May 2010, 1:19pm

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Rockfilmers

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Nice ben. What are the focal lengths and f numbers? That sounds awesome.


I've heard rumors that canons 60d will include a RAW video mode. That would be amazing. If that where the case, I would be tempted on selling my 7d to get a 60d.
Posted: Sat, 29th May 2010, 2:33pm

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ben3308

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RAW footage, though? Short of the RED, which is already a huge hassle in post, do you have any idea how much storage and how beastly of an editin computer you would need to begin to handle something like that?

RAW is great, but I don't even take photos in that format half the time, let alone video. I think superior, pricey glass would be more worth investment in the longer run. Dancamfx mentioned it, but I'll mention it again: OCT-19 in other cinema mount lenses would be a cool investment once you've got the video SLR, no need to buy a new body if you don't already have any of the really good glass. smile
Posted: Sat, 29th May 2010, 10:47pm

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Aculag

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If the cameras already have issues with overheating, they'd better be doing something magical with it in order to write RAW video files. I wouldn't be surprised if they bump up the resolution, or even frame rate, but I wouldn't hold my breath for RAW coming out of these anytime soon.

I tend to think most of the advancements in these cameras can come from firmware upgrades, anyway.
Posted: Sat, 29th May 2010, 10:57pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Here's a link to Shane Hurlbut's dslr blog, full of lots of good info:

http://hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/category/lenses/

I've linked to the section about lenses, but there's obviously a lot of other aspects covered.
Posted: Tue, 1st Jun 2010, 5:37pm

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RodyPolis

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What's a good place to get the 550d? I'm gonna order it in the next day or so and want to get the best deal. Amazon, which I thought would be cheaper, is more expensive. They have the body only for 1000+. Bestbuy is sold out on the body-only, but have the one with the kit lens for 900. I check bhphotovideo and they're sold out on all of them too.

If nothing works I guess I'll just have to get the bestbuy deal. I hope there's someone out there who would want the kit lens, cause I want to sell it and the 50mm f/1.8 one.
Posted: Tue, 1st Jun 2010, 5:42pm

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Serpent

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I am shocked Canon is slacking so much on the production of these still... This camera is revolutionary and they're hardly even marketing it. I went with the Best Buy deal (the body was in stock), and they got it to me in a timely fashion with no issues. Ebay stores is another option, but make SURE you get the factory warranty and that it is new in box, and the reseller has nearly 100% feedback. Even resellerratings.com their store just to be sure. I even came across one store that had a "buy it now" auction up, and they didn't even have the camera in stock. You would get your money back if that was the case, but still frustrating I'd assume (I read about that in the store's feedback, which you should read and not just look at the number).
Posted: Wed, 2nd Jun 2010, 6:45pm

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RodyPolis

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what the crap is wrong with Canon. I can't find this camera anywhere for a good price. Just saw it at Walmart for 850, but they're out of stock. Amazon is usually the cheapest, but they have is for 1000+. I guess I better just suck it up and buy it with Best Buy...even if I'll have to wait about 2-3 weeks to get it.
Posted: Wed, 2nd Jun 2010, 10:47pm

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ben3308

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Fry's Electronics. Seriously.
Posted: Thu, 3rd Jun 2010, 6:44pm

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Serpent

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I made a camping video with my friends. It's just a fun vacation video and I messed with the camera a bit. It was all handheld and monopod shots as we had to hike 20+ miles over the course of a couple days. I used 70-200 f/4L, 17-40 f/4l, and 50mm f/2.5 compact macro lens on a T2i. No LCD viewer (we just finished our DIY one yesterday, and it works wonders). Any changes in exposure, if there are any, were due to auto-ISO (for convenience sake). Whole video was 60 shutter, variable aperture. So yeah, nothing special, but if you want to see barebones HDSLR in a run-and-gun vacation setting check it:

http://vimeo.com/12270756

Some of the FCP smoothcam results ended up kind of funky, but this was one of those "whip something up" kind of things. I think it turned out pretty well for a fun vacation video. Anyways, on Sunday or Monday night I'll be posting a topic for this year's 48 Hour Film Project in my city, which wraps up on Sunday. It will have the film, high res screens, and a behind the scenes "making of" video if everything goes according to our very thorough plan.

EDIT: The color is noticeably untouched by the way, didn't bother with that for something like this.
Posted: Sat, 5th Jun 2010, 2:09pm

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irishcult

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Hey, I havn't been on fxhome in sometime. Took time from fx's to work on other areas of film and during this transformation I traded in my old Canon XH A1 for a Canon T2i. With a Rode Video Mic, Canon 18-55mm F3.5-5.6, Tamron 70-33mm f4-5.6, 50mm f1.8, a battery grip, z-finder, 126 led light panel, and plenty of other accessories.
Posted: Sat, 5th Jun 2010, 3:54pm

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doppelganger

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Serpent wrote:

I made a camping video with my friends.
Department of Eagles/Grizzly Bear is always a perfect choice for nature-ish videos. Mainly because of Daniel Rossen's god like voice.

And I'm getting my H4n today for my T2i!!!! Graduation money's going to go a long way
Posted: Sat, 5th Jun 2010, 8:49pm

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Sick Boy

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I've bought a 7" monitor which i had planned to use with my Canon 550d but i need something to attach it on. Is this worth the money: http://cgi.ebay.com/DV-Arm-15mm-Rod-support-Rail-system-/260568119828?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cab11fa14
Posted: Sat, 5th Jun 2010, 10:42pm

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Garrison

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Sick Boy wrote:

I've bought a 7" monitor which i had planned to use with my Canon 550d but i need something to attach it on. Is this worth the money: http://cgi.ebay.com/DV-Arm-15mm-Rod-support-Rail-system-/260568119828?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cab11fa14
For the same amount of money, you could get these from Redrock Micro.

Micro Mount
Micro Arm

You also get a one year warranty unlike the ebay one where all sales are final.
Posted: Sat, 5th Jun 2010, 11:20pm

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Aculag

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There's some good footage in there, serpent. And excellent song choice. I love that song. smile
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 5:19am

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Axeman

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Well, this weekend, I used my 7D as a secondary camera to shoot an event (local school play). I figured I'd mention it as the recording limits are often mentioned as a downside of these DSLR's, and I thought my firsthand experience might be of interest.

I had a primary camera set up on a tripod recording the entire stage at all times, and then 3 other cameras, including the 7D, shooting closer shots to cut to. For this application the recoding time wasn't that crucial a factor, though syncing each clip will require a bit of time. And it worked beautifully. I ran around the theatre a bit, would set up each shot (camera on tripod), get my focus, then record though to the scene change. then move to a new angle for the next scene.

The play was two 1-hour sections, with a 10 minute intermission between. During the first performance, I overheated about 1 minute before intermission, having been recording fairly regular through the first half. After cooling during intermission, it was fine for the second half. The second night, I opted to turn the camera off completely while moving between scenes, and I made it until 5 seconds of the very end before I got any overheating messages. Filled 24GB with footage on the second night, over the course of 2 hours, without any heating issues until the last few seconds. I was pretty happy with that.
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 8:37am

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ben3308

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I shot today, roughly 40gb of footage for a music video, pretty much all outdoors in the 103 degree (F) Texan heat, and the camera flashed for overheating after shooting nonstop with only 90-second breaks for over two hours.

Everytime I got the temperature warning, which was about every 20 minutes following the first one two hours in, I did a rapid cooldown of the camera by an air conditioner, then went back out to shoot. I think the heat of the atmosphere had a LOT to do with it, though.

Still, very impressed with quality:recording time ratios and battery life. Today, my overheating warning was the only thing that made me realized ANY recognizable downside to the camera, and with 2 T2i's on hand it made it a non-problem, at least for this shoot.
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 9:59am

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spydurhank

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Has anyone tried shooting against a green screen to see how well these cameras perform? Just wondering if there are any issues when trying to key footage shot on one of these cameras.

I checked out that camera shoot out link that someone posted earlier but it wasn't as informative as I would have liked... that or I just didn't understand it.
If you have tried this, please let me know and thank you very much. biggrin
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 7:44pm

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Serpent

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Thanks for the comments on the video guys.

spydurhank wrote:

Has anyone tried shooting against a green screen to see how well these cameras perform? Just wondering if there are any issues when trying to key footage shot on one of these cameras.
I am also wondering this. I have a mini greenscreen and I'm trying out a test with a miniature car model, I'll post my results when I'm done, which brings me to...

The 48 Hour Film Project. It went amazingly well until 3:00AM today and a bunch of drama ensued that prevented us from filming 1 key scene. I'm putting together a reel or trailer of what we came up with though, and what we came up with is beyond what I thought we were capable of, especially in that time limit. It kills me that we didn't get to shoot this witch doctor scene (we got the fantasy genre), the set and makeup were brilliant. We also got permission from DerrickComedy to use the title "Saturn Unleashed," a nod to their viral skit "Girls are Not to be Trusted." Our favorite comedy group. Very unfortunate that it played out the way it did. Such is life.

@Axeman: when it overheats, does it tell you? Or does it just not work or something? I haven't experienced this yet I don't *think,* but it was funky once, which may have been due to the USB interfacing to computer.
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 9:04pm

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Toruk Macto

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It keys out pretty well based on some LEGO tests, but then I don't know many other cameras...
Posted: Sun, 6th Jun 2010, 11:45pm

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Axeman

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Serpent wrote:

@Axeman: when it overheats, does it tell you? Or does it just not work or something?
It tells you. You will get a little flashing red thermometer icon on the screen. In both cases, I was less than a minute from being finished with the shot, and went ahead and let it play out, rather than stopping as soon as I got the warning.

This was with the 7D, but I assume the 550D will give the same warning. It sounds that way from ben3308's comment above. Is it the same warning, ben3308?
Posted: Mon, 7th Jun 2010, 12:23am

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Arktic

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Rating: +1

Axeman wrote:

For this application the recoding time wasn't that crucial a factor, though syncing each clip will require a bit of time
If you're cutting in FCP, PPro or Vegas, you might want to check out PluralEyes by Singular Software. It *does* cost about $150 - but if you plan on doing many more DSLR shoots which need syncing, then it's probably going to save you a LOT of time. It basically analyses the audio from all your sources, and uses that as a guide to sync up all the clips. Makes working with DSLR stop-and-start recording much more manageable.

Hope this helps! smile

Cheers,
Arktic.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 2:02am

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Axeman

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Yeah, thanks for the tip/reminder, Arktic. I am actually familiar with Pluraleyes, they discussed in in the HD DSLR workshop Vincent Laforet hosted at www.creativelive.com a few weeks back.

In this particular case, due to using an older version of Final Cut, there is an issue wherein all the HD footage has to be rendered before I can view it on the timeline, which is the main cause of the slowdown in editing. Because the timeline is SD, for DVD output. I've got the advantage of being able to reframe extensively, due to the HD resolution of the footage, but it does slow things down a bit. So I'm not sure if Pluraleyes would help much or not, in this case, but I would like to give it a try someday.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 2:34am

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ben3308

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Just a heads up, if you're a Vegas user and you've got a decent editing computer, I don't think you'll be needing to transcode at all if you don't want to.

Despite one or two crashes from batch importing, we've been editing the raw, from the camera files in Vegas 9 Pro for the past two days (both 24p and 60p shots) after our NeoScene trial ran out, and the editing is snappy and fast, as is HD rendering. Compression rendering may be slower, I haven't clocked it; but despite importing 50+ clips to the Project Media at a time, we haven't had any problems at all, really.

Also, the T2i/550D has the same red thermometer warning. Although I was actually able to let a take run five minutes past the warning, then it went away. Keep in mind it's not just from the inner workings of the camera itself, but overheating. Keep the camera cool enough, and continuous shooting shouldn't make it overheat. I'm in Dallas, TX, so was shooting in 103 degree (F) heat, so after filling a whole card and heading back out within 10 minutes, the overheating was to be expected.

During my whole 24 hour contest, though, no overheating issues cause by the camera recording too much itself. Just atmospheric heat hitting the camera and causing everything in general to become too hot. I would never push the camera beyond its limits, though.

Also, Arktic, didn't realize Pluraleyes could be used in Vegas. Cool!

Will be shooting a loooooooooooong feature on the RED in less than two weeks - excited to see how its shots on L-series lenses compare to the same lensed shots on the T2i.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 4:21am

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RodyPolis

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I have heard that you can't focus with the Canon 50mm 1.8 lens while filming. If that is true, why is that? I looked on Youtube for videos shot with that lens and it does seem like the focus range is static and never changes. I would think you could manually focus it while filming? But all these videos I found are the same: The actor takes one step back, or one step forward and it stays defocused.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 4:30am

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Serpent

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Heh you can nail the focus with the 50mm. But if you have just the LCD and your subject is 8-3 feet in front of you, and you are doing it all handheld, they will stray out of focus, even if you try to follow them. To help nail focusing on any lens, you can use a follow focus and use a dry erase marker or something to set markers on the lens that correlate with your actor's markers that they step on. An LCD finder is a MUST if you are just doing handheld stuff or something, it helps ridiculously. Another thing to help with focusing is hooking it up to a camera or laptop.

Basically the depth of field is very very thin, the LCD is very very small and prone to glares, and it's hard to keep in one place handheld. Lots of factors. And knocking up your aperture will help too, depends on what kind of shot you're going for.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 4:34am

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rogolo

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ben3308 wrote:

Will be shooting a loooooooooooong feature on the RED in less than two weeks
And no production thread yet!? Must not be a certified Atomic Production... wink
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 4:34am

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ben3308

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On the cheaper 50mm 1.8, the focus is pulled using the very thin edge on the front end of the lens, which some people find 'unusable' compared to a general focus 'ring' set mid-lens that one can turn. I used a 'thin edge' fiddly focus on the kit lens for my film Rebel when I was doing darkroom stuff in highschool, so I'm used to it.

One of the main concerns is that it's physically kind of rough to turn, and you may see your hand in the shot while turning. I think that the 50mm 1.8 is for sure the 'cheap' lens to get with the camera, but plan on raising 400 buck for another lens, like the 85mm 1.8 or the 50mm 1.4 each for 350 bucks. Or even a 200 dollar zoom lens. The point of getting an SLR is honestly the depth-of-field and the lenses. And the latter controls the former.

So look into vintage Nikon AI and Olympus OM and Canon FD lenses on eBay; because a good amount of these can be attached to the T2i with the right conversion mount (usually 30-100 dollars, depending on how sturdy).

Also, the RED feature is indeed someone else's project, but will merge to Atomic once I'm able to get my brother onboard.
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 7:28pm

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Toruk Macto

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How do you hook in up to UR computer (Mac)? I have only tried the yellow/white/red one on my TV...not very portable... unsure
Does a different computer wire come in the 7D box?
Posted: Tue, 8th Jun 2010, 8:02pm

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Serpent

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Install the Canon EOS software, hook it up via USB, turn on the camera, and open EOS Utility. Click "Camera Settings/Remote shooting," and if the window doesn't open up, click "Remote Live View Shooting" under the "Tool" menu.
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 12:00am

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RodyPolis

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Just ordered my 550d, and I think I got a pretty good deal for it.

Camera (body only) = 799
Transcend Class 6 16g Card = 40.00
Canon 50mm f1.8 lens = 99.95
2 additional no brand batteries (hopefully Ben's advice about not getting the Canon battery is true) = 26.43

In total it was less than $970, which I think is pretty good since earlier this week the prices for just the camera were at least $1000. Should have my stuff by next week and we'll be filming my first video that same week. Hope everything goes good. Thanks to all of you for guiding me through buying this; if it wasn't for you guys I'd just get the kit lens and not think twice about it biggrin

EDIT: If getting a class 10 instead of Class 6 will make much of a difference, tell me now so I can change the order for about 10 dollars more.
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 12:11am

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Aculag

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Where did you order from?
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 12:18am

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Serpent

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RodyPolis wrote:


2 additional no brand batteries (hopefully Ben's advice about not getting
The battery life is shorter on them, but they are so much cheaper and there are 2 of them. That means you can always have 2 charged/in use and one charging, for guaranteed battery. This is what I gathered from research and reviews, I ordered 2 batteries + car charger on ebay for $27 or so. So ben's advice was savvy.
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 4:11am

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RodyPolis

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So I know the 50mm 1.8 lens can't zoom and all, but can't the camera zoom? Since there is a 'zoom in' and 'zoom out' buttons on the camera, I didn't think my lens had to zoom for me to zoom. Would someone who knows more about this let me know more on zooming with the camera? Did I reject any chances on zooming by getting that lens? How does it work?
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 4:17am

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Garrison

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Rody, you have a prime lens which has no zoom at all. You'll have to physically move the camera closer if you need to frame your subjects closer.

The zoom buttons you are talking about on the camera are the camera's ability to zoom in so you can accurately pull focus. A very handy tool I might add.
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 4:27am

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RodyPolis

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Guess I'll have to get into renting lenses then. But then again, the biggest reason I zoom is to get a good DOF, and as I understand this won't be a problem with the 1.8.

Glad they had these zoom buttons. I wondered how exactly I was gonna focus right in HD when all I had was a small screen to look at.
Posted: Wed, 9th Jun 2010, 5:18am

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Garrison

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Yes, zooming in on a video cam's fixed lens is the way to get the DOF, so you will love the SLRs ability to get that look without it on certain lenses.

If you have a smartphone that can download apps, look for ones that help with DOFs.

There are some of them out there that helps explain the focal lengths, ranges etc. depending on the lens and camera that you shoot. I found it very helpful in understanding the strengths and weaknesses of each lens.
Posted: Fri, 11th Jun 2010, 9:29pm

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Atom

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We've posted this in General Chat, but because we've been talking about these things here (for what seems like forever, now!) and slowly we've all been accruing our sweet T2is/550Ds, I thought I'd link it here too.

Aside from our recent 24-hour movie Release, this short demo reel is basically everything we've done with the camera the past 3 weeks we've had it. Fun stuff, and more to come- and, of course, it all looks gloriously awesome on the new camera. Especially slow-mo.
Posted: Sat, 12th Jun 2010, 1:24am

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miker

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I'll be selling my Panny DVX-100B and picking up a 5D Mk II soon. Incredible how many people are using DSLR's now. My DVX has been good to me. But it'll be worth the upgrade.
Posted: Sat, 12th Jun 2010, 1:29am

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Rockfilmers

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It's amazing how many people are getting these cameras! My 7D is the buy I have ever made. Along with a book trailer that I made, I have finished shooting two short films, one is almost finished, I just need to work on the sound. I've been amazed with the cameras ability to provide nice, clean shots under good lighting conditions. I really wish though that the camera only had a 10-12 mega pixel range though to cut back on some noise.
Posted: Sat, 12th Jun 2010, 1:39am

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Serpent

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@Atom: have you guys been predicting slowmo shots and shooting at 60 frames per? Or are those 24p clips slowed down?


I want to see how far someone can push the slowmo with 60p, fast shutter speed, and an After Effects plugin or something. I also want to see more green screen work. There are more cinematography test montages of focus pulls and stuff online than the internet ever needs. Not that I'm complaining, some of them are very good. But I want to see what else people can do with the footage. Doing visual effects and compositing on this footage has been a treat for me, but I don't have a large blue/green screen any more. So if anyone has links to some different 7d/5d/1d/550d stuff let us know.
Posted: Sat, 12th Jun 2010, 1:47am

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ben3308

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All of our slow motion is at 60p. We're slowing down by a factor of 2.5 in post with resampling disabled in Vegas to yield a 24fps, smooth slow motion shot.

For the music video, we had - for a portion of it at least - one of the rappers say the lines at 2.5x speed so that, once slowed in post, it would look like a really in-sync rap with even smoother, more filmic motion.

On the raw 720p of our fire shots, slowing to a factor of 3 in post still looks fluid, although anything beyond that starts to look a little sketchy. Running shots at S1/2000 in 60p look relatively smooth, but get a little 'stutter-y' when slowed to like 30% original speed.
Posted: Sun, 13th Jun 2010, 11:25pm

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ben3308

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Sorry for the double post, but wanted to post up a video I shot over the weekend coming back from a family reunion in Arkansas.

I shot it with the kit lens, and edited on my laptop in the outdated Vegas 6, without transcoding, even on a 400 dollar Dell notebook. And, despite a render quotient of 4 (5 minutes = 20 minute render, etc) it all proved to go relatively smoothly.

Video is here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouqameJkfTA

Shot, as mentioned, on the kit lens, all handheld. Yes, there's a bit of shake, but by and large, for a Bloom-esque video I don't think it's too bad. I certainly was surprised by the amount of dynamic range I got, in the grass and the sky. Like I said, this is just a test wherein I stopped by a house and did some video for 15 to 20 minutes (explored the area a bit during that time, too) and the product yielded decently good results.

For sure check it out. Kit lens stuff, even I was surprised how it came out at f/5.6...
Posted: Mon, 14th Jun 2010, 11:52am

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Sick Boy

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What's the noise at 0:58, on the rooftop? I get the exactly same disturbance when shooting something with many flat lines. Is it the lense or the CMOS sensor?
Posted: Mon, 14th Jun 2010, 1:21pm

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Simon K Jones

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I seem to recall reading that the shimmery aliasing is due to the sensor, or specifically how the image is downscaled.
Posted: Mon, 14th Jun 2010, 2:23pm

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swintonmaximilian

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Aliasing is inherent in all the video dslr's, it's down to the camera skipping lines of actual resolution to make the image, I think. I'm not exactly sure of the technical details, but you can avoid it by shooting around it.
Posted: Mon, 14th Jun 2010, 4:51pm

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ben3308

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Sick Boy wrote:

What's the noise at 0:58, on the rooftop?
It's a bit of aliasing, yes, but that motion and fuzziness is from me pulling focus. I shot it at 60p, so slowed to a factor of 2.5 on that clip, in particular, in post, to make sure it didn't shake or wobble. Hence, when I'd held focus as long as I could in the tall grass, i slipped out of focus slowly and that's what you catch towards the end of the clip. That, coupled with some aliasing from DSLR video - which isn't THAT prevalent, really. I hardly notice it most of the time!
Posted: Mon, 14th Jun 2010, 6:37pm

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Sick Boy

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Do you always use 60p while shooting? The reason for asking is that my footage in PAL and 25p (shutter 50), gets these 'yankings' while panning and moving the camera. Objects passing fast by, isn't getting in focus, but it's not really a focusing problem. Hard to explain. It's not closely as smooth as you see with expensive cameras which makes me believe stuff from hollywood is actually being shoot with a higher fram rate and is then down played in post, or there is something wrong with my 550d. I doubt the last one, as i've seen this problem in every footage shoot in 25P with the 550d. Yours got out smooth, but i really don't want to shoot in 50p (pal) as it's not in full HD.

This is what i'm talking about: http://vimeo.com/10466342

Look at the 5D!
Posted: Tue, 15th Jun 2010, 3:34pm

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RodyPolis

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Finally got everything needed for my 550d. The lens came today! It's the 1.8 lens. I thought it'd look more cheap, but other than the plastic build, I like how it looks exactly like the 500d. Already trying it out! great low light capabilities! Overall, very satisfied so far. Thanks for you guys' help on buying the right stuff.
Posted: Tue, 15th Jun 2010, 9:03pm

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Atom

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Sick Boy wrote:

Do you always use 60p while shooting?
Oh, heavens no! 60p is great for shooting slow-motion, but it's an absolutely 'stupidly-silly' looking style of regular motion. Much like those 120hz TVs many stores sell that give that awful 'hyper-real' faux-fast-motion appearance. Most all of our footage is shot natively at 24p (or 30 sometimes- still pretty standard), and this is what I'd most always recommend. Not only does it give you the option for full 1080 HD- but it just always looks better. Hollywood is 'film look', that isn't the video-y 60p. Which brings me to this:

you see with expensive cameras which makes me believe stuff from hollywood is actually being shoot with a higher fram rate and is then down played in post
It's probably a real rarity that this happens. In fact, you can real tell that higher framerates are picked cautiously for shots- as some movies don't shoot enough of them and cut slowed-down standard 24fps footage with proper slow-motion.

So don't worry about your 550d shooting funky 60p the whole time- regular framerates should be just fine for most everything. Just, as always, plan and pick you slow-mo clips ahead of time and be sure to shoot those in 60p!
Posted: Thu, 17th Jun 2010, 5:52pm

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Aculag

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Well, B&H is finally in stock today, and I have the money, so I took the plunge and ordered the most basic kit for now. T2i body, Nikon Lens adapter, class 6 16gb SDHC card. I already have two EOS lenses and a pretty fast (2.4) Nikon, so I'm going to wait on purchasing any new lenses. I should have the money for my H4N in a few weeks, and then it's time to SHOOT. smile I'm getting pretty pumped. It's been a long time since I shot anything. And I decided to keep my HVX and M2 so I can do dual camera shoots.

Also, I couldn't help but order with next day shipping, so I'll try and post up a clip over the weekend. This is pretty excellent timing, because I'm taking a trip next weekend, to Colorado for a Tool concert, then to New York to hang out with my good buddy/actor for a week. I'll have just enough time to get to know the camera before I fly out, and plenty of opportunity to shoot clips during my trip. I seriously cannot wait to shoot in NYC with this camera. Fourth of July is going to be awesome for shooting. Yesssss!
Posted: Fri, 18th Jun 2010, 8:48am

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Simon K Jones

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Very, VERY good plan keeping the HVX. The HVX and T2i make a really superb combo.
Posted: Fri, 18th Jun 2010, 9:29pm

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Aculag

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It came, and I love it so far. I'm noticing a few things that make me wish I had gone for the 7D instead, though... I got used to the form-factor of my 20D, so the smaller size is a little weird right now, and I miss having a mini-LCD up top to change my settings. Not a big deal, though, as the menus are really well thought out, and very functional.

I definitely need to pick up some ND filters, and for some reason, the Nikon lens adapter I bought doesn't fit my Nikon lens, so I need to figure that one out...

Am I correct in thinking that you can't shoot 24 fps at 720p? Not that I mind shooting 1080 all the time, but my computer would probably appreciate 720 much more. Hoping for a firmware update that allows for more frame rates in 720 mode.

Anyway, really awesome camera. I just figured out how to manually change the aperture when the battery died, so it's charging up right now, and then I'm off to take some pictures of things.

Edit: Got the lens adapter to fit. The flanges had some burs on the edges that were too high to fit, so I took it apart and filed them down gently. Now it fits like a glove!

Also, I absolutely love the size of the LCD on this thing.
Posted: Fri, 18th Jun 2010, 10:32pm

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Thrawn

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Very nice Aculag! Good to hear you're enjoying the camera.

I was going to get the T2i last week, but unfortunately the store didn't have it in stock, so I'm waiting another week. I'm getting two Class 6 SDHC cards, a 50mm lens, Zoom H4N for my NTG-2, and some other nice accessories. I cannot wait to start filming!
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 1:55am

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lwmedia

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I use a Pentax k-x. For the price, the quality of 720p (24pfs) video is amazing if you use it under the right lighting conditions. I have a few really old pentax lenses which fit the k-x! It brings a really genuine film look the footage. (Though I have found that the distortion in these old lenses causes problems in matchmoving & tracking)

There are some SLR's out there that have 1/8 inch audio jacks, which you can mount a videomic on. Otherwise, finding a method for recording quality audio to match your quality video may become an issue.

Just my 2 cents,

-Logan
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 3:01am

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RodyPolis

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Finally got to test my 550d. I went and filmed a soccer playing friend I have practicing some soccer. Filmed yesterday and edited today. Shot with the 50mm 1.8 lens (in case you're wondering)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tipg9g9ekxY
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 4:26am

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doppelganger

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Just got my indislider in today and for $114 it's excellent. I hate dealing with dollies and tracks so this is perfect for me. I dont do alot of dolly stuff either since I also recently got my Glidecam HD1000

Indislider test - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oL3QWtwk2E

HD1000 test - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2VCiq6gIbk

The HD1000 test isnt very impressive just so you know, the things a b!tch to work especially if you've never used a steadicam like me. The video is also very dark sorry.
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 5:15am

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Aculag

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That indislider footage is really nice. Sounds like a great investment for the price.

Here's one of my first shots from walking around today. This is just straight from the camera, resized in photoshop. Nikon 35-70mm lens. Don't remember the specifics.

http://www.dennisandronnie.com/images/smallflowers.jpg
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 6:53am

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Axeman

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I shot some greenscreen footage with my 7D today. Cobbled together a greenscreen studio in my living room, so there wasn't quite as much space as I'd like, but I'll try get a raw clip or two uploaded soon, so you guys can have a look at it to gauge how well these cameras hold up shooting greenscreen.

At first glance, after capturing it to the computer, it looks pretty good, but I've not tried to pull a key on any of it yet. Will keep you posted and let you know when I get a clip uploaded.
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 7:44am

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Serpent

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You've sold me on the Indislider, wow! I love Animal Collective, and those were fantastic shots (some stopped abruptly it seemed, should've cut sooner, unless you were going for something). Is that the mini or the pro?

Glidecam stuff is really hard to see on my super bright screen. I'd like to see some daylight stuff, maybe longer shots, up stairs, moving fast/possibly jumping over stuff (be careful lol), etc. If you're bored I think people would be interested in an HDSLR steadicam variety test.


I might try this out:

http://www.yb2normal.com/DIYsteadicam5.html

So far I'm trying out DIY options for everything but technical camera stuff and lights. So far I've got jib, dolly, snorricam, steadicam. Actually, I guess that's not all that much. I found out a DIY LCD viewer just doesn't cut it. I'm sure it can be done, but not with the cheapo magnifying glasses or macro lenses. Magnifying glass works better, but it can't magnify nearly as much or as well as the $150+ ones, obviously. Too much distortion and whatnot.

This is apparently the best design in anything near that price range for a do it yourself steadicam. I might scale mine up in size a little, but the ease of adjustment and gimbal/counterweight on both sides is awesome for a DIY steadicam.


Aculag: Nice shot.

Rody: decent fun soccer video, well shot and edited, good soccer skills as well. Excellent juggler. Makes me miss playing.
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 2:30pm

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Aculag

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I made it an all-nighter last night, and built a pretty decently functioning, extremely basic handheld rig using parts that I had lying around my apartment, and a few tools. It very badly needs an eyepiece for that extra stabilization, the shoulder rest needs work, and it needs a counter-weight (right now I'm just using my rods for counter-weight, since I don't have anything else to put on them.) It's pretty cool, because you can turn the camera around, and it functions like a pseudo-snorricam, making for some cool looking shots. I'll try to get some good sample clips, and pictures of the rig, later today, or tomorrow.

I really want to build a nice snorricam. Things are awesome. Do you have plans for how you built yours Serpent?
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 6:00pm

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Serpent

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We used this design:

http://www.watchmojo.com/tv/5min/IndyMogul/19141519/

I recommend making the top platform separate (have the arm cut off right before the top platform), and use some kind of tightening system so you can adjust the tilt of the top section. We haven't done this to ours, so depending on our actor's height, the lens, how it sits on the actor, etc., sometimes we have to attach a tripod head to aim more down, or have a camera operator kind of support the end of the Snorricam by holding their hand underneath the top platform pushing it up a bit, tilting it down more.

Basically some times it aims sightly too high unless you have a way to adjust the tilt. I really like the way this attaches though because it's relatively comfortable, easy to make, and easy to put on. We made ours in about 20-30 minutes, 50 including running to the store. If you spent a little time on it I'm sure it could like nicer than ours, lighter than ours. Go for as light weight as possible, for obvious reasons.
Posted: Sat, 19th Jun 2010, 8:00pm

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miker

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RodyPolis wrote:

Finally got to test my 550d. I went and filmed a soccer playing friend I have practicing some soccer. Filmed yesterday and edited today. Shot with the 50mm 1.8 lens (in case you're wondering)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tipg9g9ekxY
Looks really nice. I need that camera.. wink
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 2:30am

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ben3308

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Looks like the 1.8 lens is treating you well! I think I actually need to buy one now.... biggrin
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 6:42am

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miker

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doppelganger wrote:

Getting a T2i on June 4th with a 50mm 1.4, H4N recorder, Glidecam HD2000, indislider, lcd screen, and several sdhc cards... all of this comes out right under $2,500 which amazes me.
That's crazy. Where are you buying from?

Where's a good, reliable/established place to buy a 550D or 7D?

What do you people think, for video recording work. 550D or 7D? Or.. even 5D Mark II? Any thoughts? I'm looking to buy one of these asap.
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 6:47am

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nitrox

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miker wrote:

doppelganger wrote:

Getting a T2i on June 4th with a 50mm 1.4, H4N recorder, Glidecam HD2000, indislider, lcd screen, and several sdhc cards... all of this comes out right under $2,500 which amazes me.
That's crazy. Where are you buying from?

Where's a good, reliable/established place to buy a 550D or 7D?

What do you people think, for video recording work. 550D or 7D? Or.. even 5D Mark II? Any thoughts? I'm looking to buy one of these asap.
I think you are better off getting the 550D/T2i, its half the price, the images it produces are just as good as the 7D. With the extra money you can get some nice prime lenses and other nice accessories.

If you think you will be subjecting the camera to any heavy abuse( i hope not) then the 7D might be better as it has a much more robust body.
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 8:18am

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Aculag

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If you have the money for the 5D MkII, by all means go for it. But if you want to be thrifty, the t2i does produce remarkable footage, and is easy to use. And you'll have money left over for lenses, and you won't feel so bad about upgrading when the inevitable better camera comes out in a year or two.
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 3:20pm

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doppelganger

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miker wrote:

doppelganger wrote:

Getting a T2i on June 4th with a 50mm 1.4, H4N recorder, Glidecam HD2000, indislider, lcd screen, and several sdhc cards... all of this comes out right under $2,500 which amazes me.
That's crazy. Where are you buying from?

Where's a good, reliable/established place to buy a 550D or 7D?
I bought pretty much everything from B&H except the H4N which I got from a local music store and the Glidecam which I got used on ebay for $150 cheaper than the normal price smile. I also got an awesome Zenitar 16mm lens on ebay because it's made in Russia and pretty much no one carries it.

Also you can pick up the T2i at most best buys instead of ordering it. I got mine at the best buy right down the street for the same price as everywhere else, $900 with kit lens.
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 6:30pm

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RodyPolis

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Preview of my upcoming music video! Shot with t2i and 1.8 lens. Watch in HD

http://vimeo.com/12715627
Posted: Sun, 20th Jun 2010, 9:15pm

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Axeman

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Right, here's the greenscreen footage I shot recently. I've still not keyed it myself, but I trimmed out a couple short clips for you guys to mess with if you want. All I've done to the footage is trimmed the ends off in Aperture, so its exactly as it came out of the camera other than the length.

http://www.belowthesmile.com/fxhome/quickdraw1.mov
http://www.belowthesmile.com/fxhome/quickdraw2.mov

I think it looks like it will key pretty well, but as I said I'm still looking forward to trying it out. Have fun.
Posted: Mon, 21st Jun 2010, 7:34pm

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Sick Boy

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^looks decent lit, some wrinkles at pic two?

Anyone know how i can use a aperture like 2.8 when it's sunny outside? I don't understand how i can controll the overexposure of light i get when doing this?
Posted: Mon, 21st Jun 2010, 7:46pm

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Aculag

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Sick Boy wrote:

Anyone know how i can use a aperture like 2.8 when it's sunny outside? I don't understand how i can controll the overexposure of light i get when doing this?
You can turn down your ISO, turn up your shutter speed, or use neutral density filters. Or all three.
Posted: Tue, 22nd Jun 2010, 12:03am

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Thrawn

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Just went out and bought the T2i while it was still in stock. Still haven't gotten the lens and such, but coming close! Really excited. By the way, that footage seemed to key out pretty well, Axeman.

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