Sure thing. I've tried to cobble together a few images as well to help with the explanation.
The first factor that comes into play is the Color Temperature
of the lights illuminating your scene. If you aren't familiar with color temperature, it is measured in degrees Kelvin (K), and measures the warmness or coolness of a light source, not in actual temperature, but from a color standpoint. Blue is a cool color, and orange is a warm color, and basically the kelvin scale goes from blue to orange. It gets a little confusing in that cool colors have higher kelvin numbers, due to the process used to calculate color temp in the first place, which is explained in that wiki article. Image borrowed from http://www.mediacollege.com/lighting/colour/colour-temperature.html
Since all light has some color or other, the color of the light will impact the color of the subject, to varying degrees. Our eyes, demonstrating superior design to any camera available, can handle a huge range of color and brightness, and generally compensate for color temperature changes or differences automatically, so we often don't even notice. Cameras have a much more limited dynamic range, though, so these color changes become much more noticeable.
In the case of green, such as in your screen, the color is made up of a mixture of Yellow and Blue, so whether the light shining on it is yellow or blue make a difference in the color, just as adding more yellow or blue to green paint will alter its color. Notice in this pic how much the color of a chroma green can change based on light. The center of the image is pure, unadulterated green, in normal daylight.
The second factor is how exposure in cameras works. Basically, auto exposure in the camera tries to make the value of anything you put in front of it equivalent to 18% gray. 18% grey refers to a middle shade of gray which reflects 18% of the light that hits it back to the camera.
If you take your camera, on auto exposure, and take a picture of a solid black wall, the image won't come out black. It will come out grey. The camera automatically adjusts exposure to brighten the scene, trying to make the black appear as 18%grey in the photo. If you do the same thing with a pure white wall, the image won't come out white, it will come out grey, as the camera again adjusts exposure trying to hit its 18%grey target value. When there is a variety of colors and shades in front of the lens, it averages them all out, then tries to match the resulting value to 18% gray.
There are lots of different metering modes that cameras can use to calculate this exposure though, such as spot meting, center-weighted metering and evaluative metering. These modes will vary from camera to camera, but typically you'll be able to select from an assortment of options there, and each one can impact the final exposure of the scene differently.
Most cameras, by default, use a system where the entire frame is averaged together. This means that if your scene isn't lit consistently, then areas that are too dark (or too bright) can potentially throw off the exposure, and therefore the color, of the areas that are well lit. I realize that this is kind of a complicated subject, and hopefully I made it somewhat understandable. If you have questions about any aspect of it, feel free to let me know.